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FrontRangeLiving.com -> Garden -> Spring Pastels
 Spring Garden of Pastels: Delphiniums, Roses, Irises, Clematis, Peonies,
Pansies
Spring arrives dressed in green but pastels rule the garden. Tender green peas and lettuces surround
violas and pansies. Cool-weather grasses change from parched tufts to emerald
carpets. Roses send out tender pink buds and irises unfurl a lavender flag. Peonies
take center stage in floral tutus. None is more stately than tall spires of delphiniums standing like
sentries, ranging from whites, pinks and lavenders to deep dark blues.
Clematis in blues, magentas, whites and purples crawl along chain-link fences
and sweet peas the size of tiny teacups arch from wiry stems. Lime green serves as a backdrop for soft colors. If there is only one
season for the most beleaguered garden, it will be spring--sandwiched between a rough winter and
parched summer.
 Rain arrives and brisk
winds sweep through the garden, felling
tall growers like delphiniums. But if you secure delphiniums, they’ll simply
sway slightly back and forth. It's not necessary to tie every spire. Put four stakes around your plants. Use soft, plastic ties.
Three rounds of the wire about one to two inches from each will do it. Despite
the winds, they will move and cling together. Accept them as the spectacle there
are designed to be. Delphiniums don’t have a long lifespan; they will decrease
through the years.
 Delphiniums are associated with English cottage gardens, but they grow
elsewhere too: one from Iran and Iraq is small and prefers a dry, desert
climate. Another is red and looks stunted. But the delphiniums so beloved are
the tall spires--up to five feet high, filled with splashy, big blooms—so big
that each single flower commands attention. The "bees" or center of
the blossoms are furry and brown, black or white and truly look like fuzzy
bumblebees. Tall delphiniums are elegant, with an architectural backdrop that towers over other perennials.
A longtime delphinium grower suggests amended soil for the plants with
compost. Other than that, these perennials don’t need much in the way of
fertilizing. Save every scrap from the garden for compost, making sure that
there’s no herbicide lurking. With water and heat, the mixture is exactly what delphiniums
adore. Apply the same soil techniques for clematis and sweet peas.
Delphiniums can take cold, even the cold of high altitude, and won’t
require mulch because they don’t like damp crowns.
While most garden centers can provide fine field grown delphiniums, a true
aficionado sows from seed that is hand pollinated in England. That’s how you’ll
get extraordinary colors of mauve and pale blue petals. Lavish delphiniums are
hybrids and their seeds won’t duplicate the parent plant.
To enjoy such extravagant blooms, you’ll have to grow the seed in a cool
location. An unheated garage at just under 60 degrees with horticultural lights
works well. Plant in January using sterile potting soil; it will take about
three weeks for the seed to germinate. Store the seeds in a refrigerator to
enhance their viability for about three years.
When the tender shoots develop a second pair of leaves, transplant them to a
larger pot, but don’t place them in the garden until spring. That’s because
slugs love delphinium seedlings. As the delphiniums grow, lower the light to
about two inches above the seedlings and feed liquid fertilizer at quarter strength
each week. Once they are four to five inches high, they’ll be safe from slugs.
Most delphiniums will bloom with about four hours of sun. But the tall
bloomers will need six full hours. After the bloom, cut down the spires and you
may enjoy a shorter bloom in late summer. The English Delphinium Society
suggests that once your plant is established not to allow more than five spikes.
If that’s too hard to do, pinch off the side branches, which gives a boost to
the main stalks.
Delphiniums may be too large for your cottage garden. If that’s the case,
larkspur is a substitute. These hardy annuals are grown from seed sown directly
into the soil at the end of winter. You can fling them out the door into the
snow and enjoy a bumper crop. Providing you don't pick every bloom, larkspur will self-seed regularly and, once
established, will return year after year. Like it’s larger brethren
delphinium, it is poisonous.
 Sweet Peas
Sweet peas bloom at about the same time, and like delphiniums, prefer cool
weather. Keep in mind that sweet peas are poisonous despite their allegiance to
the pea family.
Plant sweet peas the same day that you plant garden peas. The cultivation is
identical. Pinch them back after their first two pairs of leaves, which will
make a shorter and stouter vine. Although some gardeners dig a trench that they
fill in as the vines grow to protect them from the cold, it’s not always
necessary. Just watch the first few weeks because birds or slugs will eat the
tender shoots. A netting thrown over the shoots will discourage birds. Surround
the shoots with a thick blanket of sharp pine needles to stave off slugs.
Sweet peas do have to be tied to a trellis; their vines will not cling. They
need temperatures of about 60 to 70 degrees to germinate. And the seedlings
should not be allowed to become leggy. Fertilize them every week at half
strength with an all-purpose perennial fertilizer in the mornings or evenings
when the temperatures are cool. They are subject to thrips and leaf miners, but
most gardeners overlook these small drawbacks. Their old-fashioned perfume
scents the air and chiffon petals bob in the slightest breeze.
 Clematis
Like delphiniums, clematis vines grow easily in cold climates. The dark
shades of clematis, if planted in bright sun, may fade, but will thrive in
dappled shade and preserve their deep colors. Pale pinks or blues run along a
sunny border. With the soaring popularity of clematis, there are several kinds to choose from. But most fall into one of
three categories--those that bloom on new wood, those that are repeat bloomers
and those who bloom in late summer. When in doubt, prune clematis after it
blooms.
The general rule for clematis is that they love cool feet and sunny heads.
Spread mulch over their roots and allow their tops to be exposed to full sun. It
will take about three years for clematis to bloom furiously—longer if the
ground is dry. They do need to be tied to a trellis or fence because clematis,
by itself, is not a climber. There is a set limit to the growth and, with the
exception of a few species clematis, they won’t take over to become invasive.
That’s why they are safe to crawl up trees; they’ll never damage another
plant.
 Roses
Roses belong to a remarkable family that includes apples and pears,
pomegranates and blackberries. In medieval times, rose hips supplied vitamin C
to an ailing European population. The beauty of roses is legendary and it’s
hard to imagine a garden without at least one rose. The difficulty is in
choosing that one rose. But for beginners, roses can be divided into four broad
categories: species, old-garden, hybrid teas and shrubs. Each is a study worthy
of time and effort.
For the romantics, told European roses collected and hybridized before 1867
by amateur or court-sponsored botanists is an obvious draw. The apothecary rose
is one example. Naturalists are drawn to species roses that are thousands of
years old and designed by nature—like the Austrian copper. Traditionalists
line up for modern hybrid tea roses that originated from a cross between a European and China rose in
1867. ‘Peace’ falls into this category. Pragmatists will choose
modern shrub roses like Theresa Bugnet, which bring recent stalwart genes to the
garden.
Keep in mind that modern roses are the most eclectic category, including
roses that will never withstand the rigors of a cold or windy climate. But it
also includes modern roses that are as tough as many old standbys. ‘Golden
Wings,’ a five-petal shrub rose by the contemporary hybridizer, Roy Shepherd,
blooms endlessly, withstands most cold, even harsh climates, with a sturdy
resistance to disease.
Other modern roses like the Canadian roses or Buck roses have joined the list
of popular roses to grow in difficult conditions. A few favorites are ‘John
Cabot’ and ‘William Baffin’ from the Canadian list and ‘Applejack’
from the Buck category. Buck roses were developed by Griffith Buck at Iowa State
University to satisfy demands for roses in mid-western winters. Canadian growers
hybridized Canadian roses to withstand frigid winters. These roses carry names
of Canadian explorers or Canadian cities. Each has found a respectful following
around the USA.
More delicate roses are best for warmer climes.
Choose a site location with six hours or more of sunlight and good drainage
as the first step. Mix compost into the soil, as much as you might use for
vegetable gardens. Most roses prefer a slightly acid soil; if your soil is
alkaline, compost is an equalizer and helps to neutralize any soil.
Once you’ve decided which roses grow best in your garden, there is a world
of blooms to choose from. 'Jeanne LaJoie', as a miniature pink rose that turns
into a vigorous climber, is a first choice. 'Banshee', a fragrant old rose,
is beloved. The modern shrub English roses hybridized by David Austin remain favorites.
Many rose gardeners encourage the old-garden roses to reside alongside the
newer hybrid teas. Rose trends come and go, but as rose lovers everywhere will
tell you, there’s a rose for every gardener. That waft of heady fragrance, a
shade of brilliant color or a robust bush that climbs over a trellis—each will
grab attention.
 Irises
Irises once dominated Victorian gardens where the tall swords and showy
blooms commanded space and attention. They’ve fallen out of favor in recent
years because of their short blooming period, but irises offer other strong
points that should make them a valid choice in any garden.
Like roses, there’s an iris for nearly any climate. Japanese and Siberian
irises are best in conditions that are damp with a slightly acid soil.
The tall bearded irises will withstand drought and alkaline soils.
Under these daunting conditions they are pest free.
For small gardens, dwarf iris will squeeze into the tiniest spaces and
produce charming flowers each spring. Although the bloom of irises may be short
lived, the striking sword leaves remain beautiful throughout the summer. They’ll
companion with roses and ornamental grasses, corn and hollyhocks. The lovely
pallida variegated iris will mix with chartreuse-leaved coral bells and
spiderwort, columbine or bleeding heart.
They require little fertilizer, just some alfalfa and compost mixed into the
most unproductive soil. And most have only one request: to be divided and replanted every four years.
Without this regular rejuvenation, the center will die out and the health of the
plants decline. Dig them in mid-summer, separate the sword clusters,
untangling their roots. Cut back the fronds to about four inches and replant.
They are shallow rooted with the top of each corm slightly above ground. The
corm manufactures nutrients when it is exposed to light.
Few perennials will be as easy to maintain. Irises provide a wonderful border
for a vegetable garden. They also look stunning planted in mass on a hillside,
but equally lovely as a single plant in a small garden. In a pastel garden,
striking blue and lavender irises pair with pink poppies and coral peonies.
 Peonies:
Lavish and dramatic, peonies are show-offs. Even more impressive is their
longevity. Some will live over a hundred years blooming year after year for a
decade or more without any need to be divided. That’s an important clue to
peonies: choose their place carefully because they do not like to be disturbed.
In a small garden, peonies may take a bit too much space. Look for an awkward
place that you’ll rarely disturb: a hillside behind the garden, a corner
alongside a fence—wherever you plan not to dig or cultivate often. They won’t
mix with fruits or vegetables well. But peonies, like irises, are a bargain.
They’ll last forever, reward you with astonishing blooms and require so little
in return.
They will need much more water than bearded irises, but you can plant peonies
in partial shade, which will cut down on water consumption. Peonies insist on
only one requirement: they like to be planted so that the bud divisions are just
one to two inches deep in the soil, otherwise you may not get any blooms. There’s
no need for much fertilizer, just a handful of bone meal scratched into the
soil, which has been laced with compost. Single or double blooms, herbaceous or
tree, peonies can take terrifically cold temperatures in winter.
Poppies:
The flower buds of poppies look like crumpled tissue, but each bloom opens to
perfection, straight and smooth, as delicate as a moth’s wing. Choosing a
poppy is determined by what your garden needs: bold oriental poppies for
perennial color, the drought-tolerant annual California poppy for dry
gravel-strewn driveways, the alpine Iceland poppy for high altitudes or the
pastel Shirley poppies sprinkled among pepper plants and green beans. Most
poppies adapt to ordinary soil. Perennial poppies can be divided while annual
poppies are directly seeded into the garden after the last frost date.
Roses: The rose that will grow for you is determined by your climate. One
helpful source is a small booklet put out by the American Rose Society,
"Handbook For Selecting Roses." See their address below. This is a
small sampling of popular roses as examples from each grouping.
Species: Rosa glauca: A species rose that blooms only once with pink
flowers but offers winter interest with beautiful rose hips. While the flowers
are not typical of spectacular roses, the blue-green foliage and bright red hips
make this large shrub a popular choice today. These are the most basic of roses.
For rose to pink colors: Rosa eglanteria, Austrian Copper, Baltimore
Belle, Rosa glauca. Yellow shades: Harison’s yellow, Persian yellow,
Fruhlingsgold, Hazeldean. The following are white: Rosa rugosa alba, Rosa
rugosa, Rosa spinosissima, Stanwell Perpetual.
Old-garden: These roses are hundreds of years old and were cultivated in the
18th and 19th century gardens of Europe and later mixed
with roses from China. Albas: Felicite Parmentier (pink), Alba Suaveolens
(white), Bourbons: La Reine Victoria (pink), Variegata de Bologna (red),
Centifolias: Fantin-Latour (pink), Rose de Meaux (white) Damask: Rose de Rescht
(deep pink), Autumn Damask (pink), Gallica: Apothecary Rose (deep pink), Desiree
Parmentier (light pink), Hybrid Perpetuals were made popular in Victorian times:
American Beauty (pink), Frau Karl Druschki (white).
Hybrid Tea: Each year, new selections crowd the garden centers. ‘Peace’
is an old favorite that dates back to World War II. 'Iceberg', a floribunda
German white rose is a reliable long bloomer. Floribundas are developed from
hybrid tea and polyantha roses.
Shrub: A mixed collection of roses, many bred for continued blooming
throughout the summer. David Austin’s roses: 'English Garden' (pale peach),
'Abraham Darby' (orange pink), 'Mary Rose' (medium pink), 'Othello' (medium red,
almost magenta), 'Heritage' (blush pink), 'Falstaff' (magenta with mauve cast),
'Gertrude Jekyll' (deep pink), among many others. These roses vary in their
adaptability, many are scented and will bloom throughout the spring and summer.
Austin’s roses are reminiscent of the old-garden cabbage-shaped blooms.
'Therese Bugnet,' hybrid rugosa, (medium pink), a modern shrub rose with
scented blooms and old-garden appeal. Striking red canes stand out against the
snow.
Climbers and Miniatures: these will straddle all of the above
classifications. 'The Fairy', prolific bloomer, a polyantha miniature in light
pink. 'New Dawn' (light pink), 'Iceberg' climber (white), 'Victorian Memory'
(pink blend) Jeanne LaJoie, pale pink miniature unscented climber and highly
rated by the American Rose Society, this delicate climber is adaptable to many
climates and blooms throughout the summer.
Shrubs:
Spirea bumalda
Pink Flowering Almond, Prunus grandulosa 'Rosea plena'
Lilacs, Syringa vulgaris and Syringa patula,
Daphne, Daphne x burkwoodii
Compact European Cranberry Bush, Viburnum opulus
Mock Orange, Philadephus x virginialis
Hydrangea
 Perennials
Balloon flower, Platycodon grandiflorus
Lupin, Lupinus
Columbine, Aquilegia, a short-lived perennial that often self-seeds
Virginia bluebells, Mertensia virginica, good companion for tulips
and daffodils
Forget-me-nots, Myosotis, often used as a ground cover, self-seeds
easily as M. sylvatica; perennial is M. scorpioides companions
with chives
Spiderwort, Tradescantia
Delphinium elatum, is the parent of various hybrid strains, such as ‘Giant
Pacific’.
Catmint, Nepeta faassenii, 'Six Hills Giant'
Yarrow, Achillea, 'Coronation Gold' and 'Anthea'
Jupiter’s Beard, both white and pink, Centranthus ruber (red) and alba
(white)
Salvia nemorosa, 'Blue Hill' and 'Maynight Sage'
Penstemons, also called beardtongue, 'Strictus’ is the species plant,
Rocky Mountain Penstemon, P.barbatus 'Rondo'
Siberian Iris, Iris sibirica, needs regular watering
German (Bearded) Iris, Iris Germanica, good for arid climates
Pincushion flower, Scabiosa caucasica, 'Fama' and columbaria,
'Butterfly Blue,' widely adapted
Sweet Williams (biennial), Dianthus barbatus, many varieties of
pinks from this family are early bloomers in pastel colors
Whirling Butterflies, Gaura lindheimeri, short-lived perennial
Geranium sanguineum, 'Bloody Cranesbill' (magenta) also Geranium
sanguineum, 'Lancastriense' (pale pink)
Speedwell, Veronica
Lady’s Mantle, Alchemilla mollis
Dianthus gratianopolitanus, D. plumarius, edible and spicy
scented. A hardy family of low-growing heirlooms.
Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea, D. mertonensis, (biennial), will
self-seed but hybrid varieties will not grow true to the original plant you
selected. Poisonous.
Prairie Mallow, Sidalcea, a good substitute for hollyhocks if yours
are plagued by rust
Peony, Paeonia lactiflora, classic spring bloomer
Poppies, Papaver orientale, for splashy pink and plum blooms. In
high altitude climates, try Papaver nudicaule, the Iceland poppy.
Bulbs
Allium aflatunense, flowering onion
Allium Sphaerocephalon, drumstick allium
Narcissus, daffodils
Eremus, hybrids, foxtail lily
Muscari, grape hyacinth, hardy bulb that will spread
Tulipa, tulips
Lilium, Asiatic lily hybrids will bloom in late spring or early
summer
Crocus, cheerful early bulbs, best for rock gardens or under
deciduous trees
Vines
Clematis, widely adapted, regular watering, pruning needs vary
according to the variety.
Annuals
Shirley poppies, Papaver rhoeas, also called Flanders Field
poppies, perfect for the vegetable garden.
Bachelor’s button, Centaurea cyanus, for a self-seeder,
excellent for dry gravelly areas
Pansies and violas, Viola, accompanies the salad garden of greens,
also an edible flower.
Larkspur, Consolida ambigua (formerly Delphinium ajacis), easy
to grow from seed and a companion to the larger Delphinium.
Love-in-a-mist, Nigella damascena, easy to grow from seed, ferny
foliage
Spider flower, Cleome spinosa, a bold annual best at the back of
the garden
Sweet Peas, Lathyrus odoratus, prefers cool and moist gardens.
Requires a netting or tellis.
Ground Covers
Thyme: woolly thyme, thyme minus and mother-of-thyme, Thymus serpyllum
'Coccineum' (fuschia red)
Veronica allionii, 'Allioni'
For the Shady Garden:
Bleeding Heart, Dicentra spectabilis, companion for columbines,
roses and peonies, delicate flowers arch over foliage.
Coral Bells, Heuchera sanguinea, exquisite coloring in bronze,
golden and lime green colors.
Monkshood, Aconitum, highly poisonous plant that is easy to grow,
often a substitute for delphiniums in shady areas. Beautiful dark
blue/purple color.
Lungwort, Pulmonaria, Interesting foliage, will grown in deep
shade
Heart-leafed Bergenia, Bergenia cordifolia
Hosta, wide-leaved grown for its foliage; attractive to slugs so use
a pine needle mulch to keep them at bay
Lamium, heart-shaped leaves that echo many of the larger heart-shaped
leaves of hostas. Spreads rapidly.
Japanese Anemone: 'Honorine Jobert,' very early spring bloomer;
vigorous spreader under the right conditions of shade and water
Helpful websites and places for the pastel look:
David Austin Roses, Ltd. 800-328-8893; www.davidaustinroses.com ,
although David Austin is British, this Texas garden center sells his roses
Jackson & Perkins, 800-292-4769; www.jacksonandperkins.com,
wide-range of roses and perennials
J.W. Jung Seed Co., 800-247-5864; www.jungseed.com, roses, perennials,
annuals, vegetables and fruit
White Flower Farm, 800-503-9624; www.whiteflowerfarm.com, wide selection
of perennials and bulbs
Wayside Gardens, 800-845-1124; www.waysidegardens.com, perennials
Heronswood Nursery, Ltd., 360-297-4172; www.heronswood.com, unusual
perennials, rare plants
John Scheepers, Inc. 860-567-0838; www.johnscheepers.com
Bulbs, Lilies, Iris and Vegetable seeds
Van Bourgondien, 800-622-9997; www.dutchbulbs.com, bulbs, perennials
Seymour’s Selected Seeds, 800-353-9516; www.seymourseedusa.com,
perennial and annual flower seeds, some plants
W. Atlee Burpee Company, 800-888-1447; www.burpee.com, best known for
vegetable seeds, but also a wide variety of
perennials, annuals and bulbs
B&D Lilies Snowcreek Lilies, 360-765-4341; www.snowcreekdaylilies.com,
lilies and daylilies
American Rose Society, 8877 Jefferson Paige Road, Shreveport, Louisiana,
71119-8817, 318-938-5402; www.ars.org
North American Lily Society: www.lilies.org
Heartland Peony Society: www.peonies.org
American Iris Society: www.irises.org
American Clematis Society: http://clematis.org
Robert Bolton & Son: www.martex.co.uk/hta/mb43500.htm for British sources
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