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May, 2008

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An Interview With Culinary Herbalist Karin Winans

Karin Winans is founder and past president of the Herb Society of America, Rocky Mountain Unit. She also has served as the Herb Program Coordinator for the Denver Botanic Gardens’ education program. An avid cook and gardener, Winans spends her spare time nurturing a kitchen garden where herbs play a prominent role.

FRL: How did you get interested in culinary herbs?

WINANS: When I was young in my early 20s I enjoyed cooking and learning about spices. I got cookbooks and started making things and noticed I was adding my own flavors rather than what was called for. Then I started growing herbs and when I had more than I could use, I started learning to make different kinds of pesto, health and beauty aids.

FRL: How did you learn to grow herbs in Colorado?

WINANS: I just picked up books, read about it, and tried it. Almost every herb grows well here, although some are more tropical and aren’t hardy. You can even create the right environment for watercress, which needs a more humid climate. Because this is an arid climate, most things grow well. We have less fungus problems: mints, oregano, rosemary -- those are susceptible to mildew elsewhere.

We don’t have the problems that the South has where the herbs die out from the wetness. In fact, stressing herbs slightly by not watering too much will concentrate the oils in the herbs.

FRL: What are your favorites?

WINANS: Basil is a favorite, my absolute favorite is cinnamon basil. It has an additional spiciness and a pretty leaf that’s variegated and smells heavenly. It’s especially wonderful with chocolate mint in a shitaki mushroom dressing. To me, greens and a dressing is the ultimate salad.

FRL: Are there any special recommendations from your years of trial and error with herbs?

WINANS: Rosemary has a few challenges. It’s not hardy through the winter. And it can have mildew, although that doesn’t happen much outside, it usually happens inside. I’ve lost only one or so out of many. I start putting my rosemary pots outside when we get nice spring days. Also, keep any mints in a pot. They are invasive.

Cultivate Greek oregano rather than Italian oregano, that’s got the stronger flavor. Italian oregano is more of an ornamental plant. Lemon thyme is one of my favorites.

Lavender is also a favorite, I use it in my turkey stuffing with sage, which is another wonderful herb. Lavender is good in savory foods. It has a powerful taste; it can be too much. Be subtle. You need to work with it.

FRL: Salad greens grow well here, too. Do you grow any herbs as greens?

WINANS: Arugula, which is a cross between herbs and greens, also nasturtiums (edible flowers) and cress are delicious. The nasturtium seed can be a poor man’s caper. Cilantro grows well. It’s more like a green. Curly cress is the same way. Both can be grown in the early season, even with snow cover. Dill also grows early in the spring and bolts in the heat. The whole family of cress--water cress is the most difficult--but there is a dry land cress, a curly cress and peppercress that’s wonderful. Plant it along with your cilantro. If you grow on the east side of your house, herbs won’t bolt as quickly.

FRL: What is your teaching philosophy in your classes?

WINANS: One of the things I try to do with students is to get them to experiment. People are afraid to deviate from recipes. Buy a spice that you don’t know and taste it, smell it, think about what it may go with. Then you’re letting your senses guide you. Over the years I’ve come more to a kitchen garden style of planting edible flowers, herbs and vegetables. It’s more than just growing a plant, it’s a relaxation, a grounding and a spiritual experience. My garden is my own sanctuary and an essential part of balance in my life.

 


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