ROCKY MOUNTAIN HERBS

by Debbie Whittaker

Convincing anything to grow through the harsh winters and arid climate that blast much of the Front Range can be daunting to gardeners transplanted from more temperate and humid regions. Colorado does, however, provide more than adequate growing conditions for a cornucopia of fresh herbs, leaving gardeners and gourmets a bountiful source of edibles over a long growing season.

Loosely defined as "any useful plant," herbs combine fragrance, food and, often times, medicine, in an aesthetically pleasing landscape. Tonics for the body and soul, many culinary herbs thrive from early spring through late autumn. Fall-planted annuals like chervil, cilantro and arugula appear as early as March along with hardy perennials like chives and tarragon.

Long summer days warm the soil for more delicate annuals like basil and nasturtium, while those woody perennials sage and thyme easily withstand the weather transition into November.

Many Herbs Adapt Perfectly To Colorado

Mediterranean, wild and cultivated herbs bask in the full sun of the Rockies. Hardy perennials actually prefer less water, making them well suited to our dry climate. Woody perennials, those whose leafy branches stand throughout the winter, provide decades of aromatic leaves and flowers. These drought-resistant plants grow well with little supplemental watering once their root systems become established.

Fleshy perennials, which die back completely in the winter, sprout long before gardeners start watering for the season. Self-seeding annuals, like dill, borage and chamomile, appear year after year as evidence of their ability to succeed naturally along the Front Range. Even cultivated herbs, like basil, will thrive through the warm summer days.

Wild herbs, which dot the landscape throughout the region, are excellent choices for the garden. The sweet violets that line woodland paths provide a fragrant, dark-green and purple blanket under the trees in shady neighborhoods. Several varieties of mint, which punctuate moist, mountain areas, are excellent candidates. Varieties of radicchio and endive, both relatives of wild chicory, can be cultivated in kitchen gardens. Even the lowly dandelion--leaves, flowers, roots and buds--finds its way to the tables of savvy diners.

Because of their natural ability to survive, these plants must be carefully maintained to avoid becoming invasive. Perennials should be bordered with deep edging. The best way to accomplish this is to cut the bottom off a 5-gallon, plastic nursery container and sink it into the ground up to the rim. Fill the container with garden soil and plant a small specimen of any invasive species in the center of the container to prevent roots from escaping. Remove any flowers before they go to seed.

While most of the plains of the Front Range can accommodate zone-5 herbs, many higher elevations have to be choosier. Fortunately, quite a few cold-weather perennials and short season annuals add interest to everyday fare, even in areas as cold as zone 3

French Tarragon Will Survive In Zone 3

For decades, choosey gourmets have engaged in a long-standing debate over whether French tarragon or basil should occupy the position of highest esteem in the culinary category. While none would argue basil’s versatility in the kitchen, French tarragon offers a distinct advantage to Rocky Mountain growers. In the Denver-metro area, its tender shoots are table ready as early as April, several months before the soil has warmed for growing basil.

French tarragon provides decades of carefree delight. A single plant can last a lifetime if separated and renewed every few years. Thriving in our dry climate, French tarragon does not like its roots continuously wet. Well-drained soil is its most critical requirement, so clay soils need amendments with peat moss. Over a number of years, a single cutting planted in a mostly sunny area will spread to rival small bushes. It is, however, easily controlled. Just spade up chunks and pass them around to friends or place them in other areas where they add delicate foliage to an edible landscape.

Often confused with Russian tarragon, French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) lends a more delicate character to a variety of dishes. Russian tarragon is less aromatic in character, its texture coarser, its color less bright. To differentiate in the garden, most would have to compare the two side by side. French tarragon is one herb that should be purchased only from knowledgeable herb growers. It must be propagated through cuttings and cannot be grown from seed.

In the kitchen, French tarragon is suited well to both raw and cooked foods. Young spring growth is considerably milder in flavor than leaves plucked after the stems have toughened later in the season. As a rule of thumb, use whole sprigs only when the stems are pliable. If you have too much in the garden, long stems make wonderful bedding for salads, fish and other savory foods. Most famous as the critical ingredient in Béarnaise sauce, French tarragon has a number of varied uses. A few fresh sprigs lend its slightly anise undertones to green salads, tuna salad and a long list of simply prepared meats and vegetables.

Basil, The Indispensable Annual

Not to be overshadowed by tarragon, the ubiquitous 'Sweet' basil (Ocimum basilicum) reportedly grows well in all zones. Although basil may be started in the garden once the soil has warmed in June, established plants require significantly less water once established. Additional top mulch will hold moisture in the soil, making basil more drought-tolerant than most vegetables.

Young basil can be harvested at any time, so planting starts in several stages of growth will ensure a longer season. Waiting to harvest until the plants are large and bushy is a mistake. Although you’ll get a larger crop, you will sacrifice the best flavor.

'Sweet' and 'Genovese' basil are the traditional varieties. Others offer the same general character in plants that have been hybridized for flavor, plant size and cold hardiness. The leaves of ‘Lettuce Leaf’ cultivar make an attractive lining for individual plates of cold salads. 'Thai' and ‘African Blue’ will sustain basil lovers several weeks after cool weather has destroyed the flavor of less hardy varieties. Some growers favor ‘Lemon’ and ‘Cinnamon,’ which are not commercially available.

Fresh basil adds an inimitable quality to a wide variety of foods. Having enough of this leafy herb to make pesto is by far the most popular reason for growing, but having even one plant in the garden gives you the freedom to experiment freely. Innovative cooks garnish whole leaves or snip threads over everything from green salads to deserts. Fresh basil complements anything with tomatoes, fresh or canned, but it also adds character to virtually any simply prepared vegetable, meat or grain. Although generally perceived as an addition to savory foods, many herbs, but especially basil, have been used in deserts such as Cinnamon Basil with Chocolate Ice Cream and Strawberry Pie with Basil, which is the highlight of one of the classes at The Seasoned Chef in Denver.

Chives, Prolific Beauty, Utility To Zone 3

A staple of herb gardeners everywhere, common garden chives (Liliaceae) provide a natural border and long-standing beauty to the edible landscape. Chives are easily grown from seed, but require warm soil for germination, so bedding plants are preferred in areas where summer temperatures dip below the required 65 degrees for germination. One chive plant, dug into the proper location, will spread into enough bulbs to divide within a few years. Clumps can be divided into groups of five or six to replant. Chives are quite tolerant of soil conditions, but their fleshy stalks require an average amount of moisture.

Garlic chives, also known as Chinese chives, have a slightly different flavor than common chives. Their white flowerets and flat succulent foliage varies from the traditional chives but can be used interchangeably for culinary purposes. These hardy perennials, however, prefer a somewhat protected position in the garden and often relocate themselves next to fences and under trees.

Both the foliage and flowers of chives and garlic chives provide good flavor and presentation in any food that would normally benefit from the addition of onions or garlic. Flower petals add color to monochromatic salads and grilled vegetables. Beware of using entire flowers whose strong flavors are far too overpowering for the blossoms to be consumed whole.

For culinary use, the blades of the chive plant may be harvested down to the ground several times during the season. Chives will grow back within a few weeks. To preserve the beauty of the plant cut a strip through the center, which will leave plenty of foliage to mask the cut sections while they regenerate. Snipped chives should be added to foods after they are removed from the heat to preserve their delicate flavor. Chives do not dry well but can be frozen whole or chopped in zipper freezer bags or small deli containers.

Mint: Plan Carefully To Deter Invasiveness, To Zone 5

The many varieties of mint are well known to take over the plots of unwary gardeners, but one mint plant also offers a lifetime of aromatic foliage. Following the instructions described above for controlling invasive wild herbs will save you hours of digging out plants that have spread to unwanted areas. Mint, however, is a water lover, so growth in our dry climate is more controlled than in other areas of the country.

Throughout the U.S., the use of mint is largely confined to sweet foods and beverages. In other countries, however, it occupies a more prestigious position in savory cooking as a traditional addition to rice and other grains, as well as stews. When used judiciously, it lends complex undertones rather than overpowering flavor.

Dandelion: Great Greens, Flower Garnish, To Zone 3

Contrary to popular belief, dandelions are naturally a great food and powerful medicine that can be a welcome addition to high-altitude gardens where the choices are significantly more limited than on the plains. Most people realize this hardy perennial is widely available in almost everybody’s garden, but old plants supposedly generate more bitterness than first year growth. In addition, only plants that haven’t been sprayed for three or more years should be eaten, so dandelion is best grown in your garden for consumption. Although it can be easily grown from seed, it is also raised from stem cuttings, pieces of stem planted in the ground.

Sadly ignored for culinary purposes in the United States, all parts of the dandelion are edible. The leaves and flower petals are generally used raw in salads and as garnishes. The roots are chopped into stir-fries, and the buds are pickled as a substitute for capers.

Herbs Versatile And Beautiful, Too

To the savvy herb gardener, no thrill quite compares to the ability to walk out the back door and harvest dozens of varieties of culinary herbs. The most water-restricted areas render great flavors from xeriscape varieties. The smallest spaces accommodate a full season of gourmet flavor from one small plant, and the most copiously attended landscapes benefit from the endless variety of colors and leaf texture. No other category of plant comes close to rivaling their combination of versatility, ease of care, utility and aesthetic character.

RECIPES

Mint Ice Tea

• 1 quart brewed tea
• Sugar, to taste
• Lemon juice, freshly squeezed, to taste
• Mint leaves, fresh, about a handful

To freshly brewed tea, add sugar, lemon and mint. Allow steep and refrigerate. When cool, discard mint leaves and serve. 

Herb Lasagna

Pre-heat the over to 350 degrees. Get out a 9-by-12 baking pan.

• 1 pint ricotta cheese, low-fat is fine
• 1/2 cup each, Italian flat-leaf parsley, sweet basil, oregano leaves--all chopped coarsely
• 9 lasagna sheets
• 1/2 cup diced fresh mozzarella
• 1/2 cup grated Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 4 cups tomato sauce.

To make tomato sauce: sauté five sliced fresh garlic cloves and one diced onion in 1/4 cup olive oil. Blend the contents of a 28-ounce can of tomatoes in a blender or food processor. Add to the onions and garlic. Set aside.

Bring water in a 6-quart saucepan to a boil. When it comes to a rolling boil, add 1 teaspoon of salt to the water. Drop in the lasagna sheets, cook until they are flexible; they need not be cooked much more. Remove them from the water.

Spoon a ladle of tomato sauce on the bottom of the baking dish. Line the bottom with three lasagna noodles. Mix the ricotta with the herbs. Spoon a ladle of ricotta mixture over the noodles. Repeat with another layer of noodles and ricotta. Top with the last three noodles.

Cover the lasagna and bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until the noodles are cooked through and tender. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the mozzarella and Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese. Return to the over for 10 minutes or until the cheeses have melted. Adding the cheeses in the last few minutes will prevent them from becoming rubbery. 

Baked Chicken with Herbs

Preheat the over to 350 degrees

• 1 handful each: fresh thyme, parsley, rosemary, tarragon
• zest of one lemon
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Place herbs, lemon zest, garlic cloves, olive oil, salt and pepper in a food processor or mortar. Either process or grind with the pestle until the mixture is coarsely blended. Rub the mixture under the breast skin of the chicken (the skin will lift up as you slide your fingers between the skin and breast meat. Also, rub the mixture all over the chicken and any leftover can be placed in the cavity. Roast the chicken at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes a pound. Turn the bird every 15 minutes so that all four sides are rotated. When finished cooking, let the chicken for at least 30 minutes before serving to retain the juices and allow the herbs to become more flavorful.  

Warmed Goat Cheese with Herbs

• 1 log of fresh goat cheese

• 1 handful of any herb you love: basil, or cilantro, or parsley, chopped

Mix herb with goat cheese and melt it slightly, either in the oven or microwave. Don't go beyond a warming stage. Serve immediately.

Sage and Parsley Soufflé

Sage is a wonderful companion to eggs. It will dominate the parsley, but parsley, as usual, will simply add to the herbal flavors and smooth out the sage.

• 6 eggs, separated
• pinch Cream of Tartar (this is a grape sugar that helps egg whites to rise)
• 1 Tb. olive oil
• 1 Tb. flour
• 1 cup milk
• 1/2 cup grated cheese, any kind, Cheddar or Parmesan is fine
• 5 fresh sage leaves, minced
• one handful of flat-leaved parsley, minced

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and butter a casserole dish. Separate the yolks of the eggs from the whites. Refrigerate the yolks. Beat the whites with the Cream of Tartar until they form soft peaks. Place in the refrigerator. In a heavy bottomed skillet, heat the oil, add the flour and stir with a heavy spoon, something like a wooden spoon until the flour is cooked. Add the milk, dribbling in a little at a time. The milk may be non-fat if you prefer. When a thick sauce has formed, remove it from the heat, add the cheese and allow it to melt. Add the egg yolks and herbs. Fold the mixture into the beaten egg whites. Pour all into the casserole dish and place in the oven. It should be done in about 45 minutes, or when the top has risen and developed a brown crust. Serve immediately. Serves four as a main dish.

Resources:    

• 1. Denver Botanic Gardens, 909 York Street, Denver -- Herb and Kitchen Gardens. Open daily. -- Educational classes on herbs and other topics. For more information: www.botanicgardens.org or call (720) 865-3580. -- DBG Guild - Tends the herb and kitchen gardens. Monthly meetings with speakers second Wednesday at 9:30 a.m. DBG members only. Contact Volunteer Services at (720) 865-3560. -- Herb Walk with Debbie Whittaker. 

2. Littleton--Herb Garden tended by the Herb Society of America, Rocky Mountain Unit. All gardens open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Free in of-season. For more information: www.hudsongardens.org or call 303-797-8565. 

3. Herb Society of America, Rocky Mountain Unit. Monthly meetings with speakers on topics pertaining to use of herbs, generally the third Wednesday of every month at 7:00 p.m. at Denver Botanic Gardens. Contact: Marilyn Filipek at marilynfilipek@hotmail.com, or by calling (303) 355-5033.

4. Free brochure on "Xeriscape Edibles" from the Denver Water Department. Request the brochure by calling Linda Maier at (303) 628-6159.

Debbie Whittaker is known as the Herb Gourmet. She gives cooking and herb gardening lessons throughout the Denver-metro area.