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May, 2008

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Gold Lake: A Lesson in Relaxation

Gold Lake Resort is a special hideaway. It’s the type of place that – once you’ve found it – you’ll want to tell everyone about it. Though just before you divulge its whereabouts, you’ll hesitate, afraid to spoil the secret.

A place that is as wonderful for couples seeking romantic getaways as it is for friends in search of a brief respite from family pressures, the 100-acre jewel has something for everyone.

Thinking back on our one-night stay my mind’s eye sees vast peaks in the distance, cabins with woodsy and artistic flare, a wide blue lake and an even wider sky. I can smell softly scented oils being massaged thoughtfully into stressed muscles and thick, rich hot chocolate wafting through chilled air. Wide-open spaces accommodate horseback riding and small winding paths welcome hikers and wildlife neighbors that visit Gold Lake as frequently as Front Range residents. Some guests return every month.

On a weekend retreat, a group of doctors chatted quietly around the a hot tub in tired voices, ready to let the weekend sink in. "I think we delivered every Denver baby last night," one recalled as she slipped into the warm water. 

The resort has evolved through many incarnations over the years. Some remember it as a mining camp, a role that did not – thankfully –leave its mark on the landscape. Later it was a Girl Scout’s Camp and the wood-planked floors and exposed beams in cabins and – on a much grander scale in Alice’s Restaurant – harken back to that time. Employees jokingly describe Gold Lake as a camp for adults and I couldn’t agree more though the pampering at the spa might tip the scale for most camp-goers. For the last eight years the 100-acre property has been operated as a spa for day-goers, overnights and weekend getaways from Friday through Sunday.

Our drive from Golden took about an hour and a half, and after we turned onto the dirt road that led to the resort I first noticed a smattering of stone Cairns at varying distances. Used as markers by American Indians, Cairns lend a spiritual air to the area retelling its rich past to newcomers.

I had been forewarned that the dirt road takes quite a while but once you round the last bend and see the community of cabins you will breathe a sigh of expectant relief. As we climbed out of the car we met two women checking out after a day at the spa. We fell easily into a brief conversation and learned that they’d had massages, a tasty lunch at Alice’s, hikes along a few of the paths and a long soak in the hot pools that sit alongside the lake. They raved about their lunches, comparing menus and suggesting a few items for our dinner. I scribbled notes as we waited for someone to check them out and us in, and found myself writing more about their languid countenance than their tips. By the next morning, a mere 17 hours later, I could actually feel the sense of calm that had radiated from them the previous day.

We had walked a sampling of the trails and dipped into the steamy pools during a windy yet starry evening. We’d caught the tail end of the Wine Tasting held each afternoon from 4 to 5 p.m., sipping a tasty biodynamic wine along with several interesting cheeses and crisp slices of pear. I had been massaged with warm river rocks that I can still – if I concentrate – feel tingling between my toes and we had eaten a scrumptious meal served before a crackling fire. It was one of the nicest sensations that I can remember: complete comfort.

The menu at Alice’s Restaurant changes daily though there are a few mainstays, such as the Crispy Duck that return visitors order without fail. There were three other tables with guests on the evening that we dined at Gold Lake and after hearing the couple next to us rave, "I could eat this dessert every day of my life" we had no choice but to order the chocolate flourless torte. And it lived up to its reputation. Accompanied by homemade peanut butter ice cream, bananas and caramel, the dessert was a perfect end to a delicious, innovative meal.

Part of Gold Lake’s charm is its camp-like atmosphere. You can hear the wind howling through the wooden planks though inside the cabin it was cozy, thanks to a converted wood stove. Our rooms were outfitted with antiques mixed in with an Indian drum, wicker tables and a worn Oriental rug.

Staff members greet you with warmth and kindness and take care of every need effortlessly. The cabins are all outfitted with different artistic touches – ours had a stained glass window and a beautiful tub of hammered copper that literally took our breath away. Most of the bathrooms have sunken tubs with heated flooring that is a godsend during the winter months. Aveda toiletries and buckwheat pillows cater to guests who appreciate natural lifestyles, and abide by notes from the owners that ask everyone to conserve water.

While there is something for everyone at Gold Lake, the resort markets itself as specializing in nothing in the simplest definition: You can do whatever you like or simply be. There is an art pad with pencils and chalk at the Activity Center for afternoon drawing, and various board games that disappear to people’s rooms in the evenings. There are views to drink in, water to swim in or gaze at and a stunning array of peaks to admire and photograph.

We walked along the lake, hot chocolate in hand, and took in the eclectic sculptures created by local artisans that dot the grounds. There is something about the air at Gold Lake that tugs at the daily stresses of life, letting them slowly slip away.

"People have simply forgotten how to relax," said Eric Gricus, manager of Gold Lake who took us – my husband Jim and me – on our brief tour. We saw a variety of cabins – the largest of which has two bedrooms – and vary in decoration and size. There are no televisions or telephones in any of the eight cabins, and cell signals are not available.

At the end of the tour we came upon an enormous boulder with a square hole cut neatly in its center. Eric smiled, gestured and said, "This is our TV."

And oh what a show.

Before heading back home we stopped for breakfast at Alice’s, a generous buffet set out on a long wooden table in the center of the bright room that looks out on the mountains. A fire crackled in the fireplace as several tables with chattering friends gobbled down delicious banana bread, crisp bacon and scrambled eggs and fresh grapefruit.

After an evening escape – one of the resort’s most popular packages – we drove back down the dirt road on the way to Highway 72 talking about our next trip to Gold Lake, and the different things we’d like to try – a different massage, dinner choices, a trip up to Brainard Lake hike when the weather was not so crisp, perhaps even a swim in the lake…

Gold Lake Mountain Resort & Spa, 3371 Gold Lake Road, Ward, Colorado,  80481; 800-450-3544 or 303-459-3544; www.goldlake.com

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