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FrontRangeLiving.com -> Cooking -> Summerwines
 The Dessert Wines of Summer: Sweet and Crisp, Light and
Fragrant
By Sally Mohr, Master Sommelier
Indulge yourself with the fruits of summer—peaches, apricots,
strawberries, raspberries, cherries and blackberries. Freshly picked, these
exude the essence of summer: juice-dripping, pit-spitting, and finger-staining.
Cook them in a pie, tart, crumble, crisp, or cobbler. Adorn a shortcake, panna
cotta, meringue, or ice cream with these luscious jewels and then accentuate
them with an appropriate dessert or fruit wine and perhaps a liqueur.
The heat of summer is not the time to pull out the big, rich, syrupy
monsters. Instead, look to the light and refreshing styles to quench the thirst
and cool the body. Let’s look at the array of wines from around the world that
would enhance these summer treasures.
There’s one caveat—when pairing desserts with wines be sure to match
sugar levels. If necessary, err on the side of the wine being sweeter than the
dessert. Wines become flat, are overwhelmed or even taste metallic if paired
with a dish that is sweeter.
SEMI-SPARKLING
Semi-sparkling wines have always provided the ultimate in refreshment.
Besides the bubbles giving your mouth a wake-up call, they bring a festive mood
to any occasion.
· Moscato is the best known of these. Wonderful
aromas of fresh peaches, apricots, orange blossom, and honey. This is the
Muscat grape of the Piedmont region of northern Italy, best from the town of Asti.
Great bottlings are also found from Oregon and California. Pair these with the
lightest of desserts, very simple preparations. Their lower alcohol and
light-as-air feel should be used to accent the dish.
· Brachetto d’Acqui is another specialty
from northwestern Italy. This one is red in color, slightly bubbly and smells
like ripe cherries and blackberries. Matches spectacularly with anything
chocolate as well.
· Freisa d’Acqui is yet another northern Italian
find. It tastes like fresh strawberries with just a tickle of effervescence.
Though very hard to find, the California producer of Bonny Doon makes one that
is readily available (Cá del Solo Freisa).
 LIGHT-BODIED WINES
This next group is still wines of light body and high refreshment value.
· Riesling is best known from Germany, but many wine
regions around the world have discovered its adaptability. The cooler the
growing conditions, the lighter and fresher the style. On German wine labels
look for the words Spâtlese and Auslese to get the sweet but
not super-sweet renditions. Don’t worry about any other words on the label,
German wine law is rather cumbersome and non-consumer friendly. Australia
is definitely the new up-and-coming location for Riesling. Look for the
regional names of Clare Valley, Polish Hills, Eden Valley, or Margaret
River on the label. Of course, the U.S. makes Riesling in many of
the 49 wine producing states. Colorado’s western slope is home to some good
examples: Two Rivers, Plum Creek, and Colorado Cellars. Flavors range from
pear and apple to peach and apricot with honey, flowers, and an earthy
undertone. Riesling can match up to many of the desserts of summer, whether
cooked or fresh.
· Jurançon comes from the foothills of the Pyrenees
in France. Made from the Manseng grape this reminds the drinker of an alpine
meadow—flowers, herbs, peaches, and honey. Try it with a peach cobbler or
apricot shortcake.
· Recioto de Soave is the dessert style of the famed
Soave of northeast Italy. Light as a feather, pear-scented with delicate
floral aromas, this will accent ice cream and cream-based fruit desserts.
· Chenin Blanc can become the most fabulous of sweet
wines. Examples from the Loire Valley of France can age up to 50 years! You
don’t have to wait that long before enjoying all the joys of a great Chenin
Blanc. Names to look for from France are Coteaux de l’Aubance, Coteaux du
Layon, Quarts de Chaume, Bonnezeaux, and Vouvray Moelleux. Again,
there are a few producers in California that coax this grape into a sweet
version. We are just beginning to see some fine examples from Canada! Their
best are labeled Ice Wine (think cold). Chenin Blanc reminds the taster
of honeyed apples, yum.
· Sauternes is probably the best known of all dessert
wines. Made from the grapes of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon this
unctuous liquid is spiced honey brulée in a glass. The best bottles, besides
the price, can be a bit overwhelming for summer’s fruits, so look to some of
the "lesser" regions for more refreshing fare. Other regions in
France to search out are Barsac, Cadillac, St Croix du Mont, Cérons,
Loupiac and Monbazillac. Every country in the world has tried to
emulate this famous wine style, so don’t forget California, Chile, South
Africa, and Australia for great bottles as well.
· Muscat is the same grape as the Moscato listed
above, but these are still wines from many locations around the world. This is
one of the most versatile of grape varieties since it can make dry, sweet and
sparkling. Found everywhere in the south of France with the names Muscat de
Frontignan, Muscat de Lunel, Muscat de St Jean de Minervois and Muscat
de Beaumes-de-Venise. Oregon and California have some really fun ones
also. Think orange or apricot when matching these wines.
· Gewurztraminer is one of those grape varieties that
people either love or hate. One sip is all you need to decide if you are a fan
of this pine and roses scented peach nectar (as you can maybe tell, I am a
fan). The French region of Alsace is the most renowned origin, but don’t
overlook California producers, especially from the Anderson Valley.
These can handle some of the tougher desserts to pair up—highly spiced,
either with cinnamon, cloves, or vanilla, as well as roasted or grilled
versions.
EXPERIMENT: HAVE FUN
Some fun and jovial beverages to experiment with.
· Fruit-based wines—All of the wines mentioned above are
based on grapes. Why not try a wine made from the same fruit used in the
dessert? Cherry is the easiest to find, especially from our local Colorado
producers (Carlson Vineyards especially), but Washington also has a variety of
different fruit wines to choose from.
· Fruit Syrups—Many producers around the world take a
fruit and turn it into a liqueur. Think about pouring any of these over ice
cream and adding the fresh fruit of your choice. Why not eat your drink! These
can make an excellent Kir Royale. Just add the liqueur syrup to a flute
of sparkling wine for the ultimate of refreshment. Or a splash in a tall glass
of club soda makes a cool, light spritzer.
Framboise is probably the best known, made from raspberries. Crème
de Cassis is the version made from black currants. Cherry Herring
is the cherry liqueur from Denmark. Liqueur de Poire is made from
pears. Additionally, there are liqueurs made from strawberries (fraise),
blackberries and lemons (Limoncello). Liqueurs that have a fruit added to
the base alcohol include Chambord (black raspberries), Southern
Comfort (peaches) Grand Marnier and Cointreau (both orange
based).
I hope this list will motivate you to experiment with the fruits of summer
and some festive wines. Cool off, whet your whistle and encounter all the best
summer has to offer both on your plate and in your glass.
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