|
FrontRangeLiving.com -> Cooking -> Judgment Day
 Judgment Day
By Sally Mohr, Master Sommelier
For 48 hours the only interruptions are food and sleep. Everyone’s teeth,
lips and tongue are stained a ghastly shade of purple. Fifty judges evaluate
over 2,800 wines--some more than once--during a large newspaper-sponsored event
held in Texas.
On the first morning with introductions made, the group splits into ten
panels with five members each: a "Who’s Who" of writers,
restaurateurs and retailers from all over the country. These professionals
destroy taste buds and experience sensory overload. We do it for the love of
discovery, the camaraderie and the challenge.
At 9 a.m. tastings begin. All types of wines are represented—sparkling,
dessert, dry, sweet, white, pink, and red. They come from all over the world,
made from every conceivable grape variety. Each panel is given a diverse
assortment with no one group subjected to all the Merlots or Chardonnays. To do
so would be cruel and unusual punishment.
GETTING DOWN TO SIZE
Evaluation on the first day involves what is referred to as retain or
reject. Very large categories must be whittled down to the medal-contenders.
Most just get sniffed. A lot can be assessed from the aroma. The bad ones don’t
even need to be tasted. This method gets the control group down to a level
playing field.
A flight of wines, usually 10 glasses, is placed in front of each judge with
code numbers. The judges are told the category and they may ask questions
regarding particular wines, especially if the category is broad, such as Miscellaneous
Varietal Rosé. Each judge evaluates the entire flight. When everyone is
finished, the panel director asks panel members the award for each wine.
Discussion can get heated.
Remember there are five distinct and diverse personalities here. Egos must
get checked at the door. Personal biases do come out, but no one takes it
personally.
EVEN PROFESSIONALS DISAGREE
The judging begins. It’s the best wine I’ve tasted in the category. The
rich, ripe peach fruit is underscored by lime blossom and other exotic flowers.
How could a wine be more in balance? The sweetness and acidity are perfectly
matched. The long hedonistic finish wafts to my memory of a tropical island.
This wine is a sure Gold winner. It’s time for the vote.
The first judge gives no medal. The second judge grants no medal. The third
judge—it’s my turn, there’s still hope as I proudly announce "GOLD."
Judge four says, "BRONZE." Well, someone else almost agrees
with me. The fifth judge gives no medal.
"Ok, guys what did you find wrong with this one?" I ask. Comments
come flying in my direction.
"Didn’t you pick up the sulphur?" Or, "It was toooo
sweet." And finally, "Too simple for me."
Oh well, better luck convincing them on the next one.
Every judge has his or her own system of evaluation. Some sniff them all and
then go back to taste. Some go through them one at a time. Some have a point
system, either a 20 or 100 point scale. Some just call them as they see them.
Some keep copious notes. Some write nothing at all. Personalities, preferences
and pet peeves can be factors.
SCORING WINE
How is a wine scored? When the wines are submitted for the competition, the
winery must fill out a form listing the grape variety(ies), vintage, and
technical details regarding sugar, acidity, and alcohol. Most of this
information can be found on the label, but this data is necessary to place the
wine in its proper category.
Similar wines at similar prices are grouped together, so all the 1998
Chardonnays under $10 are in one group, the same for all the 1997 over $20
Chardonnays and so on. When it comes to the residual sugar in a wine, it is
important to place it in the correct order for tasting within a flight. Pity a
dry wine that is tasted after a sweeter one. They usually don’t fare well.
Knowing the grape variety is crucial to the evaluation process. Is this wine
the best it could be from the grapes it was made from? Does it sing of
that variety or could it be anything from anywhere? Is the wine balanced? Are
all the characteristics there? Do the aroma and flavors match? Is the ripeness
in check with the acidity? Is the finish long? And, finally, is the wine
pleasurable?
Three of the five judges have to agree to award a medal. The next time you
get together with four other strangers, see if you can get three people to agree
on anything! For obvious reasons the panels always have an odd number of judges.
Diversity of background and experience are essential for a balanced group, for
everyone can contribute whether they are a rookie or veteran in the wine world.
Does a medal awarded prove superiority? The short answer is yes. That
particular wine stood among its peers and showed exemplary characteristics above
and beyond the norm. Should the consumer purchase only wines that win medals or
receive high scores from magazines? No. Drink what you like and be proud of it.
Use the awards and scores as tools, not an end-all. Ultimately, you are the only
judge whose opinion matters.
|
