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FrontRangeLiving.com -> Cooking -> Winter Squash
 Winter Squash Yearns for a Comeback
by Debbie Whittaker
Once regarded as a staple in root cellars, kitchens and dinner tables across
the country, winter squash has slowly waned in popularity over several decades.
We’ve embraced fast food, trendier vegetables, and those that are seemingly
easier to prepare.
However, as the sustainable agriculture movement grows, so
does the demand for locally grown produce. Savvy purveyors are starting to
incorporate more foods typical of the American frontier where squash once played
a major role.
"Squash is a spiritual food of the people," says Julia Blackbird,
whose Denver restaurant, which bears the same name, features several squash
dishes. "I didn’t really know if we would be able to keep it on the menu,
but I wanted to try it. Now it’s one of the most popular things we have;"
she says, "People order trays of it for the holidays." More important
than any specific recipe, Blackbird says, is the love with which it was cooked.
That, she believes, is imparted to the food.
"People are hesitant about squash because they think they don’t know
how cook it," says Susan Stevens or the Seasoned Chef cooking school in
Denver. Stevens admits that offering a squash class was a hard sell, but even squash lovers who took the class were surprised at how
much they liked some of the easy-to-make dishes. "Squash seems intimidating
to the time-challenged cook. However, cooking is simply a matter of piercing and
baking," she says, "so prep time is minimal."
 The confusion stems from the wide array of winter squash on the market. It
seems reasonable to assume that the dozens of different-looking varieties from
the tiny Jack-be-little pumpkins to the 20-pound Hubbard would each require
significantly different cooking techniques, but all squash cooks relatively the
same. Consumers who are accustomed to the more common acorn, butternut and
spaghetti squash become somewhat intimidated when confronted with some of the
more unusual varieties like the striking multi-colored turban and the elongated,
striped delicata.
Grant Family Farms in Wellington, Colorado, grows more than 18 varieties,
which it sells in a stunning display dubbed "Tutti Fruitti" at large
commercial grocery stores. To help customers over the cooking anxiety, Grant
attaches a label containing cooking directions onto each squash. Kabocha, their
current favorite, has a pudding-like character with a dense smooth texture
(recipe below).
Choosing and Storing Squash
 The former glory of squash throughout America was chiefly due to its long
storage capacity. Prior to refrigeration, winter squash was one of the few
vegetables that lasted through the winter, and it can be kept in a typical
household environment today if chosen carefully and stored properly.
The longer a squash stays on the vine, the sweeter the meat and the duller
the skin, so avoid those with shiny skin. The shell and interior meat should be
hard with no soft or watery spots, or any breaks or pinholes. Weight is an
indicator of both quantity and quality of the flesh, so choose specimens that
are heavy for their size. Store squash in the same conditions characterized by
root cellars: away from sunlight in a dry location, cooler than room temperature
but not as cold as a refrigerator (45 degrees).
Cooking squash
Most winter squash can be cooked by the same variety of methods. Like the
potato, it is frequently baked, boiled and microwaved. Whether cooked with the
skins or peeled, it complements a wide variety of foods, and stands up to
lengthy cooking times. For winter squash, cooking whole or halving and baking
are the most common and fool-proof methods, but squash is also grated, cut into
chunks and sliced for streaming, sautéing and even grilling. Winter squash is
the most versatile of foods.
Cooking whole
Cooking the squash whole by microwaving or baking is the easiest method and
protects the flesh from burning, drying out or becoming watered down. It also
eliminates the perplexing approach to cutting a whole squash. Simply wash the
squash and pierce it well several times. Microwave or bake according to the
directions below. The squash is done when it yields to pressure or when it
pierces easily with a toothpick. Once cooked, squash retains heat well, so you
can cook it hours ahead and let it sit on the counter; or cook it days ahead and
reheat it. Squash can also withstand significantly longer cooking than is
necessary to cook through. The worst you can do is over cook the shell so it
doesn’t hold its shape for stuffing.
 Baked whole
For a squash that would serve two to four people, place the washed, pierced
squash on a rimmed cookie sheet in a moderate preheated oven for about an hour.
This would include acorn squash, a three-pound pumpkin, a small butternut and
many more. Less time would be required for small and hollow varieties, like
delicata, and more time for large, dense squashes. One Shaker recipe calls for
baking two and a half hours. You can tell when squash is done because it can be
easily pierced with a sharp, pointed object. Whole squash can also endure
significantly longer cooking times than are necessary to cook the squash
through.
Microwaved whole
Winter squash can even withstand the drastically varying cooking times of
microwaves. Jack be-little pumpkins cook just like a baked potato in about five
minutes. Pierce the squash well and cook. A general rule of thumb is about nine minutes for a one-pound acorn; 14 minutes for a one and a half-pound
butternut and 18 minutes for a two and a half-pound spaghetti squash. The
heavier the squash the more cooking time will be required. Turn and rotate the
squash after half the cooking time. Press on the top of the squash with your
finger. If it yields easily to pressure, it’s done. If not, test it at
successive two-minute intervals. The shell of the squash holds in the moisture
and allows a bit more leeway in cooking time than is acceptable with other
microwaved foods. Large squashes over three pounds are better cooked by other
methods. (Hubbard and banana, which comes pre-cut at the grocery store can be
cut into two and a half-inch cubes and cooked covered for about the same amount
of time per weight. Stir after half the time has elapsed.)
 Halved and baked
Although baking halved squash is possibly the most common method of cooking,
it requires dealing with the tough shell and maintaining the water level--but it
is actually quite simple. To cut through a tough squash, score a line where the
cut will be. Then, make successively deeper grooves until the squash is almost
cut through. Half, seed, place cut side up in one fourth-inch of water, cover
with foil, bake in a moderate oven, preferably 350 to 375 degrees. Some chefs
oil the cut half and place it face down on a cooking sheet, which is an
excellent way to caramelize the meat if you are confident about your cooking
abilities and vigilant.
 What to do with cooked squash
Garnishing chunks of baked squash with sweet bastes and toppings, filling
cavities with savory stuffing, or whipping up purees for soups and sauces
quickly transform this ordinary peasant food into gourmet fare.
Bastes and garnishes
- Brush jam, jelly or sweet prepared
sauce over cooked squash, especially lemon curd, raspberry jam, hoisin sauce
or apricot preserves.
- Sprinkle on Eastern spices like
cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and cloves.
- Hot pepper is a great addition,
especially a touch of chipotle or habañero sauce.
- Snip some fresh herbs into a dab of
butter.
- Drop on a dollop of flavored yogurt,
sour cream or crème fraîche.
- Add bits of chopped fresh or dried
fruit and zest, especially pomegranate.
- Any nuts, toasted or raw are a great
addition.
 Stuffings
The bland but pleasant flavor of squash complements a wide variety of
stuffing whether it is meat, grain, vegetable, dairy or combination. Fresh
cooked or precooked food will do. Hollow squash is the perfect vehicle for hash,
stews or casseroles, like salmon hash, teriyaki chicken, or ratatouille.
Although no meat, fish or fowl actually conflicts with squash, a more complex
offering of sweet fowl, spicy sausage or flavorful sauerbraten complements its
bland character. Include grains, especially wild rice, brown rice, and quinoa.
Vegetables and beans can be stuffed alone or in combination.
Orange-fleshed winter squash (pumpkin, butternut, acorn) is best with sweet,
spicy, hot or sour. Yellow-fleshed delicata and acorn are better suited to
savory mushrooms, onions, peppers, herbs and cheeses.
Puree
Most squash can be pureed for soups, sauces and to stand alone in ramekins.
Pureed squash freezes well and can be used later as a great addition to muffins,
pancakes and as thickener for soups and sauces. Use it as you would applesauce.
If you are cooking squash specifically for puree, choose varieties that have the
fewest strings and the densest flesh like butternut and kabocha.
Varieties
Acorn - Best all round for baking
The beautiful, dark-green, fluted shell of the acorn squash yields a
yellow/gold interior of mild-flavored flesh. Best known as the finest baking
squash, acorn squash is most often baked or microwaved whole or halved. New
varieties like the multi-colored carnival and the white acorn cook the same way.
Lower in beta carotene but higher in calcium than other varieties, acorn is not
the most nutritive of the winter squashes but provides plentiful complex
carbohydrates and few calories.
 Butternut - The ultimate puree
The thin, tan skin of the butternut belies the rich, creamy, orange flesh
beneath. The deeper the orange, the greater the beta carotene, which makes
butternut one of the richest squashes in vitamin A. Butternut is best known for
its dense creamy flesh which has less water and strings than other winter
squash. The dense neck takes more time to cook, while the hollow base cooks
quickly. By the time the thick neck pierces easily with a knife, the bulb end
will have caved in, making this squash less suitable for stuffing.
Delicata, or Sweet Dumpling, perfect individual stuffers
Both the delicata and its relative, the sweet dumpling, sport cream-colored
skin with dark green stripes in shallow, even grooves, but the former is a
short, fat cylindrical shape, while the later resembles a flattened bell pepper.
Like the bell pepper, both provide the perfect container for stuffing a
multitude of savory foods. Neither of these squashes contain much meat, so it is
a simple, quick task to pop them into a moderate oven, bake until they pierce
through with a sharp knife, open them up and scoop out the seeds. The delicata
should be split in half lengthwise and the lid of the sweet dumpling should be
cut from the top.
Pumpkin - The edible tureen
Whether large or small, pumpkin serving pieces filled with soup, stuffing or
a one-pot meal, make the most elegant of presentations. Mini pumpkins can be
baked and served like baked potatoes. Once the lid is cut off and the seeds and
strings removed, they are ready to serve with butter or maple syrup. Pumpkin
tureens usually hold something else to eat, or the cooked pumpkin flesh is
removed, pureed into soup, diced into stew, or otherwise used in the edible
portion of the meal.
Spaghetti - grated, sauced or herbed
Spaghetti squash is named because its cooked flesh can be scraped from the
skin into long, thin shreds. Although the resemblance with spaghetti ends there,
many people use it as a substitute, topping it with sauce and cheese and serving
it in the same manner with bread and salad. Spaghetti squash is indeed
versatile. Less sweet than other winter keepers, it has a taste more akin to
summer squash. Its bland flavor complements savory foods like herbs and onions,
and its versatile characteristics make it an excellent pureed thickener for
soups and stews.
Recipes
Julia Blackbird’s Stuffed Acorn Squash
Denver restaurateur Julia Blackbird believes that people should cook to suit
their own taste and, so, gives only general directions for cooking one of her
restaurant’s favorite dishes. Blackbird follows the halve-and-bake method,
cooking her acorn squash "all day" with a pat of real butter and a
dash of pumpkin pie spices in the cavity. Removing the foil for the last half
hour, she allows the juices to caramelize before filling the cavity with whole
pintos and topping the dish with either red or green chile.
 Grant Farm’s Kabocha Squash Soup with Wild Rice
Sauté two peeled and cubed kabocha, two cubed onions, and three minced
cloves of garlic with a tablespoon of minced fresh ginger. Add a tablespoon of
sherry and one teaspoon each of cinnamon, oregano, and white pepper. Add six
cups of chicken stock and simmer 30 minutes. Puree the soup in the food
processor and returning it to the stove. Stir in 1 cup of cooked wild rice and
heat through. Salt to taste and garnish with chopped fresh herbs.
Butternut puree
Puree together the meat from one cooked butternut squash with one eight-ounce
lemon or vanilla yogurt. Stir in one-half teaspoon cinnamon and a tablespoon of
maple syrup. Spoon into ramekins and reheat in a moderate oven. Garnish with
lime slices and slivered crystallized ginger.
Boiled spaghetti squash
Bring a large pot of water to boil and drop in the spaghetti squash. Cook for
20 to 30 minutes until a fork easily pierces the skin. Remove and let cool
enough to handle. Split the squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Use
a fork and to comb the flesh into long strands. Serve just as you would
spaghetti: with any pasta sauce. Alternatively toss the strands with butter and
minced garlic. Add freshly grated cheese and pepper with freshly snipped parsley
and basil.
Kabocha or Butternut Squash Lasagna with Fresh Sage
- 1 medium butternut squash or kabocha, either pricked and microwaved for about 8
minutes with the seeds and skin removed. Or, slice, remove the seeds and
bake flesh down in a 400-degree oven for 20 minutes.
- 1 handful fresh sage, minced
- 9 wide lasagna noodles cooked. Thin, tender noodles work best here. They
may be fresh, or a brand like Barilla is a good choice.
- 1/4 cup butter or olive oil
- 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
- salt and Pepper to taste.
Mix the cooked squash, fresh sage and half the butter or oil. Layer the
noodles with the squash mixture. On top, add the rest of the butter, dotted over
the noodles and sprinkle the cheese. Bake for 20 minutes in a 350-degree oven.
Serves six.
Acorn Squash Stuffed
- 1 acorn squash, halved with seeds removed and baked for 30 minutes, flesh
down in a 350-degree oven until somewhat tender
- 1/2 cup bread cubes from a rustic, white loaf
- 2 Tbs. olive oil or butter, or a mixture of the two
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 1/4 cup chopped onion
- 1/4 cup chopped celery
- 6 sliced small mushrooms or three large, any kind, but portabello work
well
- 1/4 cup fresh sage, minced
- 1 egg, beaten
- salt and pepper to taste.
In a heavy skillet, add half the butter or oil, sauté the onions, celery,
garlic and mushrooms until wilted and tender. Add the bread cubes and mix until
all are coated with the butter/oil mixture. Remove from the heat. Add the beaten
egg and stuff the mixture into the squash halves. Cover the baking dish with
foil and bake for 20 minutes in a 350-degree oven. Serves two.
Ginger-roasted Winter Squash
- 1 butternut or kabocha squash
- 1 Tbs. honey
- 2 Tbs. currants
- 2 Tbs. minced orange zest
- 1 Tbs. candied ginger, minced
- 1 Tbs. butter, melted
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Slice squash in half, scoop out and discard the
seeds. Combine honey, currants, orange zest, pecans and candied ginger; fill the
squash cavity. Brush the cut flesh of the squash with melted butter. Pour excess
over the filled cavity. Bake about 40 minutes or until the squash pierces
easily. Serves two.
Variation: fill the squash cavity with currants, 2 Tbs. orange or tangerine
marmalade, a pinch of powdered ginger and 1 Tbs. butter.
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