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FrontRangeLiving.com -> Cooking -> Tomatoes
HARNESSING THE SUN: TOMATOES AND PEPPERS YEAR AROUND
By Niki Hayden
 Drive east on Colorado’s Route 52
to Wiggins and it’s a straight shot. The road
stretches like a ribbon for miles, slicing between corn and sunflowers, wheat
and millet fields. The Rocky Mountains recede to reveal a vast sky studded with thin and wispy or
puffy rain-laden clouds. This is prairie country, not where you’d expect to find beefy tomatoes,
English cucumbers or pulpy sweet peppers. Or would you?
 Peel down a dirt road to the home of Russell and Cindy Shoemaker. Drive to
the dead end--miles from the road, miles from anything. Home and farm to three
generations of Shoemakers, the original turn-of-the-century bungalow stands
under trees. A second generation resides a few feet away in a '50s ranch. Cindy
and Russell built a contemporary home to complete the triangle of houses.
There’s a history to this farm that’s tied to water. "My grandfather
was a dry-land farmer. My father irrigated. And now we’re back to dry-land
farming," Russell says.
 Walk through a narrow passageway tucked into a long hedge and suddenly you’re
confronted with greenhouses. In this quiet world only the humming fans drone
noisily. The moist air slaps like a damp towel. Basking in 80 degrees of warmth,
rows of tomatoes snake along in regimented fashion, tethered to poles with
green, orange and red fruit trailing below leaves. Russell is harvesting
cucumbers this morning, but tomatoes make up the bulk of the harvest.
"Our water table dropped," Cindy says, "so in 1985 we decided
to try greenhouse tomatoes. We saw other farmers around us going bankrupt."
Farmers surrounding the Shoemakers grow corn, wheat, sunflowers and millet. But
many can grow only as dry-land farmers now. There’s not enough water
underground to support irrigation and success is dependent on Colorado’s
unpredictable rainfall. Russell runs a herd of 50 cattle and continues some
dry-land farming but it's nothing like his father's generation of farming. Tomatoes looked like a good alternative. With a short growing
season and the burgeoning population along the Front Range, greenhouse
vegetables could compete with hothouse tomatoes and peppers coming from as far
away as Holland.
HARNESSING SUN POWER IN A GREENHOUSE
 "We have so much sunshine here," Cindy says, which can be harnessed
for full greenhouse production, "even so, we’re still dependent on clear
skies. If it’s cloudy we won’t see as many blossoms. You won’t notice it
right away but six weeks later, you’ll see a drop off in tomato
production."
The Shoemakers are growing tomatoes the size of baseballs with thin skins,
small cores and juicy flesh. Peppers are thick and meaty, ranging from yellow to
orange and red. Cucumbers are the English variety, long and slender with few
seeds. Cindy breaks off a tomato at a joint. "We leave the calyx on. That’s
an indicator of freshness," she says. The calyx is a small green cap that
fits over the base of the stem where it connects to the plant. Most tomatoes
arrive in stores bare of stems because the calyx has withered away.
A greenhouse is an environment on its own—a tiny managed universe. Three
small cardboard boxes house bumblebees. They come and go as they please,
visiting plants year around. Tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers depend on
pollinating insects to set fruit. Cindy points to a small yellow tomato blossom that
has a slight brownish spot—a bruise, she says, where the bees have been
collecting pollen.
Every few feet yellow sticky cards catch unwanted pests. The Shoemakers don’t
use pesticides on their plants. So except for bumblebees, insects are not
encouraged. That’s also why the plants are torn up at the end of a year. By
January, Russell will be putting in new plants and waiting for them to begin
fruiting. "Older plants are more susceptible to disease," he says,
"so it’s worth it to plant new each year, to sanitize everything and
start over. But it does limit your production."
 Greenhouse vegetables don’t receive nutrients from soil. They’re grown in
soil-less mixes of perlite, peat and vermiculite—all natural substances from
the earth, but without essential nutrients that would boost the growth of
fruiting vines. The farmer has to match the crop with nutrients and hover over
the plants to head off any diseases, make sure the tomatoes are tethered so that
the heavy fruit doesn’t break off, fertilize to exacting specifications, water
judiciously and harvest at the right time. A crew of 14 harvests the dangling
fruit twice a week. Then Cindy takes it to the farmers markets in Longmont and
Fort Collins. It’s a three-hour drive, but the
market is a direct link to the customer.
TRYING TO EASE INTO MAJOR MARKETS
 Major supermarkets rarely buy from small farmers, even though the Shoemakers,
on a good week, may have 6,000 pounds of tomatoes. "That’s usually in
late spring," Russell says, "really, the production changes from day
to day. For eight months we pick off them." And even 6,000 pounds doesn’t
qualify as a big producer, which keeps him out of the big supermarkets. He
depends on independent stores and farmers markets managed by people who look for
high quality specialty produce. Cindy attends the markets because she enjoys
meeting customers face-to-face, explaining what goes into the peppers and
tomatoes to make them so robust.
She’s trying eight new tomato varieties, clustered and clipped all
together. "The skin is too thick; they’re a little too acid for my
taste," she says disappointedly about one. Still, her customers guide the
harvest. Some request green tomatoes. They want to make chow-chow, an
old-fashioned preserve. Or, they love fried green tomatoes. "I can’t get past
the bitter taste of green tomatoes," she says, "but others love
it." Her favorite is a beefsteak style with a thin skin, small core and
succulent flesh.
COOKING WITH TOMATOES AND SWEET PEPPERS
Antonio Laudisio, owner and chef at Laudisio’s Ristorante in Boulder
prefers the smaller tomatoes. "I like the plum tomatoes better for
sauces," he says. "I cut them in half and take out all the seeds. Then
I slice them up and make my sauces with that. I’m not necessarily going for
Roma—it’s not a brand of tomatoes but a taste. The key is ripeness and the
stem attached.
"I used to go into my mother’s yard with a saltshaker. I’d hang out
among the vines, with the sun coming through the vines and leaves. It did
something to my memory bank. It was the pollen. I stimulated the tomato plants
by shaking them, going from plant to plant. It was the oil left on my hands that
I was going for. I’m happy they are sending us the tomatoes with stems. I take
the stem off and rub it in the bowl."
Antonio is describing the calyx connected to the stem that the Shoemakers
provide as a telltale sign of vine-ripened fruit. But don’t add tomato leaves.
Like its cousin, the potato, both are in the nightshade family and their leaves
are poisonous.
 "I don’t like tomatoes cold," Antonio says, "but at room
temperature and with a lot of fresh basil. So, now, on to the peppers…they
have a strong skin and a thick wall so I roast them. After roasting them on a
barbeque outside, they’re black. I put them in a bag with salt. I didn’t
roast them to a point where they split. After peeling off the skin—and this
you can do under water--I’ve found it doesn’t matter that much if you rinse
them with water providing that when you cut them you save the juice. I don’t
want to waste that. I use them with an olive oil and fresh herbs in a salad.
"Or slice them and use them in a pasta dish with tomatoes, olive oil,
herbs, garlic, an anchovy and attention to olive oil. It’s a very quick hit
with the tomatoes. By the time the pasta is cooked, the sauce should be done.
This time of the year, don’t overcook tomatoes. The cooking is just to enhance
the flavors. The sauce won’t be very liquid so add a touch of pasta water. It
gives some viscosity, which both thickens and extends it. With that, throw your
pasta in. Don’t use cheese. Instead, grate some toasted focaccia bread on it.
Add a little fresh herbs and olive oil in the beginning and a little at the end—good
quality virgin olive oil.
"In this country, we tend to pick up on one thing like balsamic vinegar
and use it too much. The Italians use balsamic vinegar, but not the way we do.
They also use cheese, but not the way we do. On a fresh summer salad, I wouldn’t
use cheese. I would use grated breadcrumbs with seasonings, a good olive oil and
dribble some oil onto the wet pasta. Then add your sauce and plenty of black
pepper.
"I like to walk in the farmers markets, talking to the farmers, taking
in the vegetables. I like to smell the ripened fruit….really, it’s a
spiritual experience for me."
 The following
recipes were developed by Front Range Living. Antonio
has advised us: "Don’t overcook the tomatoes." So we’ve revised
our Roasted Ratatouille recipe to add tomatoes at the very end.
ROASTED RATATOUILLE WITH PASTA
One sweet medium-sized onion peeled and cut in half
Three sweet peppers cored, seeded and halved
One medium-sized eggplant cut in half
One zucchini squash cut in half
Five garlic cloves left in their husks
Five medium-sized tomatoes, cut in half
Fistful of basil leaves, any variety
½ cup of olive oil
Kosher salt
Black pepper
One pound of pasta, tubular or rotini cooked according to
package directions
Turn the oven on to 400 degrees. Place onion, peppers, eggplant and garlic
into a roasting pan, all cut side down. Pour the olive oil over and sprinkle
with kosher salt. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes or until the eggplant is soft and
tender. Add the tomatoes, cut side down. Continue for ten minutes. Remove from
the oven. Cut vegetables into bite-sized pieces. Turn the basil leaves, removed
from the stem, into the roasted vegetables. Squeeze the garlic from their husks
and they’ll melt into the sauce. Sprinkle with plenty of black pepper to
taste. Cook the pasta according to directions and serve. Cheese is not necessary
on this dish. Serves four as a main dish.
GAZPACHO WITH JALAPENO AND CILANTRO
- Six large tomatoes or nine smaller tomatoes, vine-ripened only, they
need not be peeled or seeded
- One cucumber, seedless preferred
- ½ sweet onion
- 1 clove garlic
- 1 jalapeno pepper, seeds and stems removed
- ½ cup cilantro, chopped to remove tough stems
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 sweet pepper, seeds and stems removed
- 3 cups water
Cut vegetables into large pieces. Puree all in a blender or food processor.
Chill for several hours. Serves eight.
 STUFFED ROASTED SWEET PEPPERS
- 2 sweet peppers roasted, see instructions below
- 1/2 cup breadcrumbs or cubes, preferably from a French loaf, crusts may be
included
- 1/4 cup flat-leaved parsley (also called Italian parsley), chopped finely
- 1/4 cup fresh basil, chopped finely
- 1/4 medium onion, chopped finely
- 2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan or asiago cheese
- 1/4 cup chopped, roasted walnuts
- sprinkling of dried currants or minced dried figs, about three tablespoons
- salt and pepper to taste and any juice from the peppers
Roast sweet peppers by placing them under the broiler if the stove in
electric. Turn them every few minutes until the skin is charred all over. If the
stove is gas, place the peppers over the stove top flame; turn the pepper every
few minutes to char all around. Place the peppers in a plastic bag until cool
enough to handle. Strip away out skin, remove the stem and seeds, but save the
juice and keep the peppers whole.
Sauté chopped onion and garlic in olive oil until wilted but not brown. Add
all remaining ingredients except peppers. Stuff into the peppers and bake for 20
minutes in a 350-degree oven. Slice the peppers in half for four if they are
large, or serve whole for two.
SHRIMP WITH SAFFRON, RICE AND PEPPERS
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- 1/2 onion, minced
- 1/2 sweet red pepper, minced
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/2 cup basmati rice
- 1 cup water
- pinch saffron, powder or threads
- salt and pepper to taste
- 8 fresh shrimp, any size
- 1/2 cup frozen or fresh peas
Place garlic, onion, sweet pepper and oil in a heavy skillet or sauce pan.
Sauté until the onion and pepper are limp. Add the rice, cook until the rice is
coated with the oil. Add the water and saffron, salt and pepper. When water
begins to boil, put a lid over the skillet and turn the heat to low. Allow the
rice to cook until it is tender. If you are using fresh peas, add them at this
time. When the rice is cooked through and has absorbed the water, place the
shrimp on top of the rice to steam. They will curl and turn pink. If you are
using frozen peas, allow them to defrost and add them one minute before serving.
Serves two.
PASTA WITH FRESH TOMATO SAUCE, CAPERS AND OLIVES
- 6 medium tomatoes
- 1 clove garlic
- 1/2 cup flat-leaved parsley
- 1/2 cup fresh basil
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 3 Tbs. capers
- 10 olives, Greek or Nicoise
- 1 pound pasta, any kind but penne is good for this dish
- salt and pepper to taste
Place tomatoes, garlic, parsley, basil, olive oil in a food processor. This
must be done in two batches. Heat water on the stove to cook pasta. Cook pasta
according to directions. Add capers and olives to the blended tomato sauce,
which remains uncooked. When pasta is done, pour the sauce over the pasta.
Serves three generously.
RED PEPPERS WITH SEA SCALLOPS, PEAS, ONIONS, GARLIC, RICE
AND SAFFRON
- 1 large sweet red pepper, minced
- 1 small onion, minced
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 3 Tablespoon olive oil
- pinch saffron threads
- 1 cup rice (Basmati if possible)
- 2 cups water
- 8 sea scallops
- 1/2 cup fresh or frozen peas (defrosted)
- salt and pepper to taste
Add the pepper, onion, saffron and garlic to the olive oil in a heavy
saucepan on medium high heat. Allow to wilt, but not brown. Add the rice and
stir to coat it in the oil. Add the water, salt and pepper. Lower the heat to
low and allow the rice to cook nearly done. When the rice has absorbed most of
the water, add the scallops. Size will determine how fast they cook; it may be
only a matter of minutes. If you are using fresh peas, add them when you add the
scallops. If you are using defrosted peas, add them when the scallops have
cooked through and let them warm up rather than cook.
The Shoemakers sell their produce under the name Honeyacre from Wiggins,
Colorado. They can be found at the Longmont and Fort Collins farmers markets in
the summer. Markets that carry their produce are Lay’s in Berthoud, Greeley
and Fort Collins and Alfalfas in Fort Collins. Their telephone is 970-483-5233.
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