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FrontRangeLiving.com -> Cooking -> Bison
 HOME ON THE RANGE--Buffalo Ranching in Eastern Colorado
By Niki Hayden
(KIOWA) Rancher Marlene Groves navigates her small pickup bouncing and
jostling along a bluff
overlooking her bison herd. One cow has set herself apart to give birth, the wet
calf crumpled on the ground, umbilical cord clinging to the mother. A
fierce-looking cow strides forward from the herd, watching us, on guard. The new
mother is agitated, circling her baby. Perhaps humans are too close.
 "No, they’re indifferent toward people," Marlene says, although
she warns me to stay in the truck. She points to a shadowy lurking figure, a
blur hunched low—a coyote so gray he blends into the dormant, drought-stricken
grasses. The cow begins to nudge the calf with her hoof, a gentle but insistent
prod and the calf responds. He rocks back and forth and with sudden strength, rises on shaky legs, his spine curved like a
camel. "She’s a good mother," Marlene reveals, taking note of the ear tag
number through binoculars. "He’s been in the fetal position and
it will take awhile for him to straighten out," she says.
 As soon as the calf stands, he tries to nurse, tucked under his mother’s
belly as she walks slowly back to the herd. The other cows and calves surround
her as if to meet their newest member. The coyote is nowhere to be seen.
"If Noah had seen that coyote, he would have taken off after him. He
hates coyotes and he can run as fast as they can," Marlene says, "a
single coyote, or even a dog, is no match for a buffalo." Noah is six years
old, the head bull. But during the cow’s dilemma, he was lounging, his back to
us, unconcerned. Still, the cow had nature on her side. Bison calve in the spring, much later
than cattle, which nearly ensures their chances for survival. Cold weather is
over. Grasses are sprouting and ready to support a larger herd. Usually. This
year, the Buffalo Groves ranch is dry. Grasses haven’t broken dormancy. The
common heavy spring snows never arrived. The landscape is brown, everywhere.
"We haven’t had rain since March," David Groves sums up, but skies
are overcast with rain predicted.
 A
NATURAL GRASSLAND FOR BISON
The Groves raise buffalo on 600 acres covered by grass and ponderosa pines.
They call themselves medium-sized, "anything under 100 head is about
medium," Marlene says, "not the giant ranches like Ted Turner’s."
Turner, the television magnate, raises bison on his Montana ranch. Medium
is about the right size for David because he works the ranch himself, without
outside help. The bison take care of themselves and his job is to maintain
fences, build a barn and deliver hay to his herd until rains wake up the grass.
Two years ago he and Marlene moved to Elbert County, an area that
historically supported bison herds. One of their grandchildren found an old
skull sunk into a crevice. It turned out to be the skull of a buffalo that had
died perhaps 100 years ago. "The land was meant to be grazed by
something," Marlene says, the surrounding grassy groomed swells cascading
into ravines and dry riverbeds. Research convinced them that buffalo not only
could be a gourmet product to be marketed, but would fit the land.
 Bison are perfect companions to buffalo grass—their namesake--the tough,
wiry prairie that covers eastern Colorado grasslands. The Groves decided they
would raise grass-fed bison only, without steroids or antibiotics, or even
grain. They would keep a herd small enough not to feel crowded. Bison, David
says, are rarely ill, give birth at the right time of the year, produce a lean,
healthy meat, brave tough weather and withstand most of what Colorado can throw
at them. But not a drought.
This year a pen is filled with yearling bulls. They’re feasting on hay,
waiting to be shipped to another farm, one that has grass. "We had such
wonderful grass last year that we produced a fine-looking group of yearlings.
But we can’t keep them here," Marlene says sadly, "and I hate to pen
them. But there’s nothing out there for them to eat."
 ALONE,
BUT TOGETHER
These yearlings look formidable—with long, imposing horns and intensely
staring eyes—they’re not domestic animals. Visitors to Yellowstone National
Park are warned to stay away from them lest they be gored. Marlene’s buffalo
haven’t been fed or bothered by many humans. She wants to keep it that way.
They are free to roam and rarely come into contact with people. "Bison that
run toward you have been fed by people. Animals that run away have been worked
too hard. These don’t run away or charge," she says, and to prove it, she
jumps into the pen.
They edge away slightly like a flock of birds, all pointed in the same
direction, looking over their shoulders at her. Their shaggy fur is shedding for
a new spring coat; the down pushing old aside, so that they appear tattered and
frayed. It’s not only meat that the Groves harvest, but also
coats, skulls and horns. They process from two to six a month, the meat carved up for their large freezers. Then it’s shipped to
waiting customers, or sold at several farmers markets in summer.
Their business is small scale and gourmet—strictly grass-fed bison, one of
the leanest meats available. According to the National Bison Association, bison
is leaner than beef, pork or chicken and with less cholesterol than any of the
three. Grass-fed is the leanest of all. "Some of my customers are
purists," Marlene says, "and want to know what the buffalo was raised
on. Others just like buffalo and want a steak or roast. You can find ground
buffalo in most of the markets now, but not the steaks and roasts. Prime cuts
are sent to restaurants."
ON THE UPSWING, SLOWLY
About 20,000 bison stalk the parks and public lands. The National Bison
Association reports that 230,000 bison make up market-bound herds these days,
from Florida to New York, California and Alaska—all descended from the plains
buffalo, which makes Colorado a natural home.
 There’s a mystique to bison as well as misunderstanding. Buffalo and bison
are the same. They’re native to North America and the largest land animal.
Biologists speculate they migrated from the Asian land bridge that once linked
Alaska to Siberia. In the New World, they adapted easily and grazed on grasses
of the Great
Plains.
To open up the Western lands for extractive industries and settlers, buffalo
hunters slaughtered most of the wild buffalo, signaling the end of the major
food source for Plains Native American tribes. Back East, outraged citizens
demanded that bison be quartered at Yellowstone National Park, which continues
to remain home to thousands. And while scientists tell us that you’ll find
cattle genes in most buffalo, bison remain wild at heart.
Unlike cattle, they’ve not been bred for size or marbled steaks. "They’re
a hardy animal with a better immune system than cattle," Marlene says.
"Eventually, bison may become more like cattle as bison ranchers choose
favorite characteristics," David adds. "It’s all a matter of
selective breeding."
LEAN AND HEALTHY
Bison meat is flavorful but lean. That means that it’s best cooked rare to
medium in a steak. David uses a meat thermometer to know when to take the steak
off the grill. He believes the interior should reach between 130 and 140
degrees. It will continue to cook slightly when removed from the heat.
Chef Woolley at The Fort in Morrison says the restaurant dishes up 50,000
plates of buffalo a year, making them a major destination for lovers of buffalo
steaks. "I like to cook it medium rare--it is so lean. Otherwise, it will
turn out tough and woody. A burger might be okay to be a little more done. A
steak should be pinkish red inside. The FDA says the internal temperature should
be 160 degrees because it’s a game meat, but I disagree. I prefer it at 125 to
130 degrees internally, that’s for strip, rib eye and fillet."
"Tougher cuts need some braising, like a stew of rump roast. But for a steak, you can fire up the grill at
home. I would choose a rib eye; it has a little more fat. I’ve smoked a rib
eye for three hours on the grill and it’s fantastic. It’s medium to
medium-rare. You can use the same sauces as a beefsteak. Buffalo is a strong
meat, but to me, a little sweeter than beef," he says.
Roasts braise beautifully. A lean chuck roast in a slow cooker is one of
Marlene’s specialties. She adds a cup of water mixed with garlic and herbs,
slow cooking the roast all day. Nearly all the classic European
stews in red wine or beef were designed to tenderize tough pieces of old dairy
cows past their prime. Those techniques still work today for the leanest of red
meats. (See recipes below)
 David and Marlene realized years ago that they were destined to be buffalo
ranchers. The log house that David built pays homage to the history and lore of the
buffalo. Profiles of buffalo are etched into their kitchen cabinets and their
grandchildren have drawn buffalos as pictures to be hung on the walls.
Bison are a business and a way of life for them. They love the
bison, but from afar. Bison never will be pets, not companionable like horses,
nor docile like cattle. Their wildness remains. They provoke curiosity to those
who are unfamiliar with them, as if they are to be found in a zoo. But for bison
ranchers everywhere, they represent a tough, perfectly adapted meat animal that
garners raves from both chefs and nutritionists.
Buffalo Groves buffalo meat may be found at the following farmers markets:
on Wednesdays at Cherry Creek located near Bed, Bath and Beyond, also Fridays at the Dillon Marina in
Dillon and Tuesdays at the Evergreen Wal-Mart parking lot.
Recipes
Braised Buffalo
Chuck, rump, sirloin, ribs or other tougher cuts to be
simmered in a slow cooker or covered in a casserole and baked at 350 degrees for
two hours or until tender.
- 4 pounds bison
- salt and pepper
- small amount of flour for dredging
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 bottles of dark beer, the darker, the better
- 3 cloves garlic peeled, but kept whole
- several sprigs of fresh or dried thyme, tarragon, rosemary, bay leaves, oregano—any
combination is fine
- 1 onion, cut in half
- several peeled carrots
Salt and pepper the flour and dredge the roast in the flour. Shake off
excess. Add olive oil to a heavy skillet on the stove set
to medium heat. Brown all sides of the roast. Place the roast in a slow cooker.
Pour the liquid into the skillet and scrape off the bits. Pour into the cooker
and add the onion and herbs. Cook for several hours until tender. Or, add the
liquid and herbs, place in the oven and cook until tender. If you bake the roast
in the oven, check periodically to make sure there is some liquid remaining. If
the liquid cooks out, add a scant amount of water. Remove the meat from
the sauce, which can be thickened by boiling it down to the desired consistency
in a saucepan on the stove. Serves 8
Southwestern Braised Buffalo
- 4 pounds buffalo roast
- salt and pepper
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 onion
- 4 roasted poblano chiles, peeled, seeded, chopped
- 6 medium ripe tomatoes, fresh or canned (If you add canned, include the
liquid)
- 5 cloves garlic, peeled but whole
Salt and pepper the roast. Add olive oil to a heavy skillet on the stove set
to medium heat. Brown all sides of the roast. Place in a slow cooker (heated
first) and add remaining ingredients or place in the stove at 375 degrees for
two hours. The slow cooker may take up to six hours or more. Serves 8.
Classic Braised Buffalo
- 4 to 5 pounds of bison roast, chuck, round or shanks
- flour, for dredging
- salt and pepper to taste
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 onion, chopped in quarters
- 6 cloves garlic
- 2 carrots or parsnips, peeled
- 1 leek, cleaned and cut down the middle
- 1 orange, cut into quarters with skin attached
- 2 rosemary stems
- 6 thyme stems
- 2 bay leaves
- ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 4 cups red wine or white wine—your choice, the flavor will vary
considerably with each. Red wine will be the most tart and deeply flavored.
White wine will be lighter, allowing the vegetables flavors to shine through.
Salt and pepper the flour. Dredge the meat, which may be cut up or left
whole, in the mixture. Brown the meat in the olive oil. After the meat has been
browned on both sides, add all other ingredients and cook slowly either in a
slow cooker for six or more hours. Or, braise at 350 degrees in the oven for at
least two hours. Check the oven about every 30 minutes to see if the liquid has
dissipated. If so, add ½ cup water. When the roast is tender, remove it from
the over or slow cooker. Remove the orange and bay leaves to discard. Blend all
other liquids and soft vegetables into a sauce. Check for taste, add salt and
pepper if needed. Serves 10 to 12.
Marinated Buffalo Rib Eye, Strip or Fillet
- Two to three pounds of steak
- 2 large garlic cloves, minced
- 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
- 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
- ¼ cup olive oil
- Salt and pepper
Marinades are wonderful concoctions to flavor and tenderize meat, but keep
in mind that acids of any kind will eventually break down meat proteins and make
any meat mushy, so limit the time meat sits in the marinade. When in doubt,
lower the amount of acid, which may be vinegar, lemon juice or wine.
Combine all marinade ingredients and pour it over the steaks. Marinate meat
for several hours, but not longer, in the refrigerator. Salt and pepper the steaks. Discard the
marinade. Grill on an oiled rack on each side until the internal temperature
measures 130 degrees. Remove the steak and let it rest for at least 10 minutes
before cutting. The steak will continue to cook internally, and as it cools,
keep the juices in the meat. Serves 6.
This steak is delicious served with a wedge of Gorgonzola or blue cheese. But
for a Southwestern touch, accompany with a variety of salsas.
Berries and Chilies Hot Salsa
- 2 poblano chilies, peeled and roasted
- ¼ cup raspberry jam
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- Juice of one lime
Blend or roughly chop all ingredients and simmer on low heat. Serve hot.
Traditional Salsa
- 1 tablespoon chopped onion
- 2 large tomatoes, chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 fresh Serrano or one Ancho chile, seeded and chopped
- ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
- Juice of one lime
Mix all ingredients. Chill. Serves 4.
Brandy and Wine Marinade
- 6 Tablespoons brandy
- 4 chopped shallots
- 3 garlic cloves, smashed
- ½ cup red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
- 2 rib-eye or strip steaks
Combine all the marinade ingredients and pour over the steaks. Marinate at
least two hours, but no longer, in the refrigerator. Pour off the marinade and reserve. Grill or
sauté the steaks until the internal temperature is about 130 degrees. Remove
from the grill or pan. Return the marinade to the pan and boil until the
marinade becomes syrupy. Serve with the steaks. Serves two.
Dry, Spiced Marinade
- 1 teaspoon each, whole seeds of coriander, cumin, black peppercorn, dill
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 2 steaks, any kind
Mix all in a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder. Dip the steaks in the
mixture and grill or pan fry in a little olive oil.
Accompany with polenta or mashed
potatoes. Check out our recipes for both.
Resources:
Buffalo Groves Ranch, buffalogroves.com
National Bison Association, 4701 Marion Street, Suite 100, Denver,
www.bisoncentral.com or www.nbabison.org
The Fort Restaurant is in Morrison, Colorado. Other restaurants serving
buffalo are the Gateway Cafe on Main Street in Lyons, Colorado, the Stagecoach
Inn in Manitou Springs and the Blue Sky Grill in the Pepsi Center, Denver.
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