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FrontRangeLiving.com -> Cooking
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BRINGING
IN THE AUTUMN HARVEST: BERRY PATCH FARM--One sunny day in early fall, I set off for the Berry Patch Farm in
Brighton. It is one of those unbelievably perfect days we are blessed with
during autumn in Colorado – a flawless blue sky, and sunshine that infuses the
very air with a golden glow. Despite the high temperature, there is a marked
lack of humidity that hints of the cooler days ahead.
By Stephanie
Janard
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BEYOND
THE FOAM: MICROBREWS COME OF AGE: Beer has traditionally been linked to football, fried foods and grill menus.
But across the Front Range gourmets have begun to pair beer with high-end
cheeses, chocolates, and fine dining menus. Beer dinners and tastings share table space with wine as microbrews expand the palates
of experienced foodies. This new image for the sudsy brew can be seen in fine
dining restaurants across the Front Range that have opened with or added
extensive menus of beer for diners eager to enlarge their beer repertoire.
By Heather Grimshaw
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SUMMER
SOUFFLÉS -- For light summer fare, soufflés spin their golden web around most crops
in season: asparagus, chard, spinach, zucchini or eggplant. A spoonful of
ratatouille folded into a soufflé transforms whipped egg whites into a
sophisticated main dish. And, a soufflé is far faster and easier to make
than you may believe.
By Niki Hayden
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HOME
ON THE RANGE -- (KIOWA) Rancher Marlene Groves navigates her small pickup along a bluff
overlooking a bison herd. One cow has set herself apart to give birth, the wet
calf crumpled on the ground, umbilical cord clinging to the mother. Marlene
points to a shadowy lurking figure,
hunched low—a coyote so gray he blends into the dormant, drought-stricken
grasses. The cow begins to nudge the calf with her hoof, a gentle but insistent
prod and the calf responds. He rises on shaky legs.
By Niki Hayden
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WHEN
THE CENTERPIECE LEAPS TO THE PLATE -- On the roster of edible
flowers, daylilies are practically unknown as a food source in the United
States. Although most collectors cringe at the thought of chomping on
coveted blooms, common daylilies have been everyday fare for centuries in
other cultures. August and September is the time to divide and
transplant them for next spring.
By Debbie Whittaker
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PORT
WINE -- Vintage port with Stilton cheese, pears and walnuts—try
it on a cold winter night in front of the fireplace. Also, port and anything chocolate
applies to a ruby version only. Other full-flavored cheeses (Cheddar, Gouda,
Brie) work well with ruby styles. Tawny styles are best with nuts and nut-based desserts (pecan pie, fruitcake,
hazelnut torte), non-blue cheeses (Manchego, smoked Gouda, Gruyere), fruit-based
tarts (apple pie), and burnt sugar preparations (crème brûlée, crème
caramel).
By Sally Mohr, Master Sommelier
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TROUT:
A COLORADO FISH STORY -- One of
summer’s greatest pleasures is sitting around a campfire roasting a
freshly caught trout after a day of fishing. It might be a rainbow,
brook, or brown pulled from a high altitude icy lake or snagged in a
rushing river. Tourists who flock to Colorado will consider the
experience to be part of their vacation package of majestic vistas, wildlife and alpine tundra. What they don’t know is that they are
not feasting on a Colorado fish. The deception has been going on for a
long time, but that doesn’t mean a rainbow isn’t central to a
genuine Colorado feast--one that will be rare this season because of the
drought. By Niki Hayden
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QUINOA
-- a
pseudo grain rapidly gaining popularity in the United States, requires
cool nights and warm days below 90 degrees to set seed. Although the high
San Luis Valley of Colorado is one of the few areas in North America that
can support quinoa, the end result was far different from the original
seed that was introduced. Secrets to cooking this nutrient-rich food.
By Debbie Whittaker
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THE
ART OF MAKING FLOUR -- Modern day wheat miller, Len Wunderly, reaches into the innards of machinery
to pull out a handful of flour. He scrapes the speckled powder between his
palms, spreading it finely from the tips of his fingers down towards the thumb,
searching for flaws in the process both by sight and feel. Like fine wine
making, flour milling must be tested and tinkered with finesse. But unlike the
wine master who relies on taste and smell to test the fermenting process, the
miller employs his hands.
By Niki Hayden
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ON
THE TRAIL OF ANCIENT BEANS -- When
archaeologists discovered dried beans stored in a pottery bowl dating to
thousands of years in an Anasazi dig, it clinched their theory. Beans were a staple in the diet of those ancient people. "I’ve
seen those small brown beans," says agricultural extension agent Dan
Fernandez, of Dolores County in the Four Corners area of Colorado, "and while they wouldn’t have viability to germinate now, they’re
an example of why beans grow so well around here today." Ancient
beans are still alive in Dove Creek.
By Niki Hayden
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CHAMPAGNE:
A TOAST TO THE FUTURE FROM AN ILLUSTRIOUS PAST -- "I drink Champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad," said Madame
Bollinger, one of the grandes dames of Champagne. "Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company, I consider it
obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am.
Otherwise, I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty."
By Sally Mohr, Master Sommelier
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WINTER
SALADS -- Lyons farmer Lyle Davis sits in his kitchen facing the
fields outside. Rows and rows of slumbering peonies look like upended brush
bristles, the stalks cut to the ground. They’ll wake by May, when
seventeen acres of flowers and vegetable plants return to full production. On a
bright, not too cold Colorado day, you can almost hear the lettuce growing—the
tiny sword-shaped leaves standing at attention. But it’s only the imagination
at work. Winter is locked in and the leaves of foxglove and sweet William
lie hunched, hugging the earth.
By Niki Hayden
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WINTER
SQUASH YEARNS FOR A COMEBACK -- Once regarded as a staple in root cellars, kitchens and dinner tables across
the country, winter squash has slowly waned in popularity over several decades.
We’ve embraced fast food, trendier vegetables, and those that are seemingly
easier to prepare. However, as the sustainable agriculture movement grows, so
does the demand for locally grown produce. Savvy purveyors are starting to
incorporate more foods typical of the American frontier where squash once played
a major role.
By Debbie Whittaker
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GARLIC
GOES GOURMET -- America’s addiction to garlic increased dramatically with the advent of
California’s Gilroy Garlic Festival in 1979. The annual event spawned garlic
shops, garlic restaurants, garlic publications, garlic festivals and dozens of
garlic contests across the country. Garlic's appeal is widespread and deeply rooted. But, as
any knowledgeable garlic expert will tell you, fans who confine their
indulgence to the commercial fare available in grocery stores have
circumvented the true pleasures of garlic nirvana.
By Debbie Whittaker
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THE
ROASTING OF THE GREEN -- A haze
of smoke hangs in the air in southern Colorado after the harvest. On street corners and in parking lots the pop of
the gas torch signals the season of roasting. Vendors twirl wire
baskets to sear the thin skins of Anaheim or Pueblo green chiles. Men wearing cowboy hats and boots stride to their trucks laden
with boxes of the roasted chiles that will be frozen for winter stews and
sauces.
By Niki Hayden
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AN
AUTUMN WINDFALL OF APPLES, PEARS AND SOUR CHERRIES -- The word windfall is associated with sudden, unexpected bounty--the image of
ripe fruit blown from trees. Windfall is the perfect word for autumn when there’s
a chill at night. Apples, pears and sour cherries show up in the farmers markets
as if a cool gust has blown them in from the Western Slope.
By Niki Hayden
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HUNTING
THE WILD MUSHROOM -- Wild mushrooms may be the jewels of the forest, but with shitake, oyster,
woodear and portabello mushrooms in the stores, it’s hard to judge the
difference between a wild and cultivated mushroom. Here's the definition: wild
mushrooms must be collected from the forest and cannot be cultivated on a
mushroom farm. The exquisite, tender chanterelles or the robust, meaty boletus
rarely are found fresh in stores. They're discovered in the mountains of
Colorado.
By Niki Hayden
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HARNESSING THE SUN -- The road east to
Wiggins, Colorado, is straight and narrow--slicing through wheat, corn
and sunflower fields. Surely this isn't tomato and sweet pepper
territory. Or is it? Russell and Cindy Shoemaker are growing spectacular
vine-ripened tomatoes and pulpy giant sweet peppers in greenhouses. The
brilliance of the Colorado sun makes it all possible, they say. Chef Antonio Laudisio comments on cooking with tomatoes and
sweet peppers.
By Niki Hayden
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CORN
IS KING in the summer. Even confirmed vegetable haters will drool over
fresh sweet corn slathered with butter, salt and pepper. It's a beloved seasonal past time—what truffles are to the French and mussels to the Belgians.
We'll visit the Western
Slope, which is home to Olathe Sweet corn. Aspen chef Charles Dale from the Renaissance
and Rustique restaurants shares his Maine lobster corn chowder
recipe with us.
By Niki Hayden
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SUMMER
WINES -- Indulge yourself with the fruits of summer—peaches, apricots,
strawberries, raspberries, cherries and blackberries. Freshly picked, these
exude the essence of summer: juice-dripping, pit-spitting and finger-staining. Adorn a shortcake, panna
cotta, meringue, or ice cream with these luscious jewels and then accentuate
them with an appropriate dessert or fruit wine and perhaps a liqueur.
By Sally Mohr, Master Sommelier
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SWEET
CHERRIES AND APRICOTS -- As a prelude to Western
Slope peaches, sweet cherries and apricots open the season for fruit
desserts. David and Mary Morton from Morton's Orchards in Palisade are two
you'll meet in the farmers markets. Their organic cherries are picked at
the peak of ripeness when fruit is sweetest. Recipes include sweet cherries in whipped cream with chocolate shavings.
Then try a rustic cherry and apricot pie.
By Niki Hayden
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THE
OVERLOOKED SPRING VEGETABLES -- We're
in a gardening lull when it comes to vegetables. Chard and spinach,
scallions, peas, broccoli and lettuce will make way soon for corn, tomatoes, peppers
and squash. But before we overlook this spring bounty, let's celebrate a
forgotten beauty, the humble beet.
By Niki Hayden
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ASPARAGUS
-- Brighton farmer Steve
Brancucci watched with horror as a blizzard struck his farm in April. His
asparagus plants were sprouting and ready to be picked. Despite the
occasional blizzard, asparagus can be a plentiful crop in Colorado.
Our cool spring
weather allows Brancucci to harvest from April through the middle
of June. Chef John Duran from Full Moon Grill describes his favorite
way to cook this versatile vegetable. And we'll share recipes for a spicy
sesame asparagus, a warm pasta salad, asparagus soup and a main dish
butternut squash with asparagus and pasta.
By Niki Hayden
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THE
BIG REDS -- Whether it’s a hearty stew that has been simmering for hours or a quick
steak on the grill, it’s always fun to have an excuse to open a big red. Big
food and big red wines are a winning combination. Already eaten? Enjoy a hearty
red with some robust cheeses in front of the fireplace. Too hot to cook? Summer
barbeque season is a perfect time to augment that mellow Chardonnay with a
monster red.
By Sally Mohr, Master Sommelier
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THE
PLIGHT OF THE HONEYBEE -- The world's busiest creature is essential
for pollinating our
flowering and fruiting crops. That's why beekeeper Tom Theobald is alarmed
that their numbers are declining in Colorado and elsewhere.
By Niki Hayden
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HONEY
isn't just a substitute for sugar. It's a delicacy in its own right.
Honey caramelized peppery walnuts spice up a winter greens salad with blue
cheese. Combine honey and brown sugar to caramelize salmon, or honey and
lemon for Cornish hens. Classic honey butters complete the recipes for
roasted carrots, sweet potatoes and onions.
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THE
ART OF TEA -- Whether it's in Japanese, English or Tajik, it's
good for you. We'll take you to three tea emporiums in Colorado: the
Japanese tea house of the Denver Botanic Gardens, the Brown Palace and the
Dushanbe tea house from Tajikistan. Take in an interview with a tea
importer and enjoy our recipes for tea and
scones. Or, discover a roster of popular
herbs for tea.
By Niki Hayden
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SAKÉ
REVEALED -- You may love Japanese food, but ordering saké looks
impossible. It's nothing like other wines. Where do you start? Our master
sommelier will help you understand how saké is made and where this ancient
beverage originated. She'll also give you clues to ordering saké with your
next plate of sushi.
By Sally Mohr, Master Sommelier
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JUDGMENT
DAY -- Ever wonder how wines are judged? Master sommelier
Sally Mohr takes you behind the scenes at a recent judging. For 48 hours,
restaurateurs, wine writers and retailers dive into wines from around the world. Disagreements abound and
conflicts may be heated. Eventually they leave with stained teeth and
sensory overload. But great wines have received their due.
By Sally Mohr, Master Sommelier
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EVERYTHING'S
COMING UP ROSÉ --
What's the best wine to serve with your
home grown vegetables? Why a pink rosé, of course. Our wine columnist
tells you how they are made and where they come
from.
by Sally Mohr, Master Sommelier
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